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Personally I wouldn't be TOO worried, as long as the white cable has a three pin fused plug on the end - if it's been connected into the back of an existing mains socket that is a bit more of a can of worms. Yes, it's fairly rough, but is it actually dangerous? I'd personally say no, but it...

To answer the question, I'd personally want to get either an RCD or RCBO in place to feed the shower if it were mine tbh. I'll leave cable derating discussions to the other lads ;)

No power available gives no LED at all. Power available and being used gives a flashing LED. Power available but none being drawn gives a solid red LED. HTH

Sounds straightforward enough. Join the black and brown from the hob flex to the red (or brown) from the switch. Join the blue from the hob flex to the black (or blue) from the switch. Join the green and yellow from the hob flex to the green and yellow (or green) from the switch. Worth...

Very true, I was bound to forget something :D

I'd be seriously considering at least fairly significant rewiring, to be totally honest. If you've just bought, now is the best time to do it, rather than when you've decorated, had carpets put down etc. That Memette unit looks to be 1930s/40s, to me, connected to rubber covered cabling and is...

An RCD won't trip on overload, they don't (can't) even detect it. MCBs provide over current protection, the RCD provides earth leakage protection.

Easy enough to DIY a replacement. Something like this would be a big improvement. Switch all the house power at the fuse box before starting, and check that it is dead before you start. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-13a-1-gang-dp-switched-plug-socket-white/14790 Good luck but post...

Are they 12v or 240v bulbs? Mad question, but do they flash when they should be on, or when they should be off?

Looks like a simple-ish job; crow-bar/screwdriver to break up the timber framework. Then strip the wallpaper. Finally patch/replace (or just sand and paint) the skirting if needed, then skim and paint the plaster. As to cost, reckon on maybe half to a day of 'plasterer time', cost depends...

Might be a junction box where the consumer unit used to be?

To be honest, if you like the house and can get it at a price you're comfortable with, what is in that report wouldn't worry me too much - the obvious thing would be to ask for a price to fix the problems, and ask the person who did the report for more information on what that would involve and...

Haha, true. Time your blink reflex carefully :D

See if you can fit a 40 or 50 amp rated (cooker type?) switch into the box. It will be loaded at less than half of its capacity, rather than around three quarters, and will have heavier duty contacts etc. Something like this might be suitable...

If you've got an isolator fitted into your present meter, why not fit the new one today? That way it doesn't matter if the new meter has one or not.

What about this? https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/149121-45a-dp-cooker-control-unit-with-neon-and-13a-socket-metal-white-flush But yes, agree about replacing the white rubber cable being more urgent!

Yep, same here.

Basically, GPUs are better/quicker at performing the calculations than normal computer CPUs would be (fairly similar maths to pixel shading type calculations - I think), so they use as many of them as they can.

And what about the future of the planet? Or do you consider that that is just "someone else's problem"? FGS!!!!!

I reasonably sure the device you are holding doesn't keep the neutral and earth leads apart, it actually connects them together. Get a second one, and put neutral into one of them, earth into the other, and try it again.