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To paint a door I get the paint on quickly with a roller and follow behind with a brush. It is fine to paint them in-situ but you may struggle with the hinge side depending how much they open (some of my doors are adjacent to walls so they have to come off to paint). Even if they come off, stand...

Had to do this a few times. I always go for option 3. I'd scrape the worst of it off with a sharp utility scraper, being careful not to jab at it too much or you'll get bits flaking off.

I'm currently designing a shed and have a question about how to structure the roof. I need to keep the height under 2.5m as it's close to a boundary. The shed is 5' 6" x 11' and will be built out of 3x2. I was aiming for an apex roof with 6/12 slope. This would make the rise about 1' 5", plus...

Had a lot of fun and games today. First things first, I did eventually managed to shift the blockage with a wet vac - great shout thanks! That piece of plasterboard was completely loose and was hanging on the waste pipe, weighing it down. I've cut it all out. Several of the connections were...

Par for the course in this house mate. Previous owners had a full renovation done by some cowboys, I've spent the last few years gradually putting it right.

So far no issues upstairs, nor any sink backup when the loo is flushed, so I'm fairly sure the issue is somewhere in the pictured assembly (or worse, behind the units). Thanks for your help, I'll try sucking the blockage out!

I thought as much. No wet vac unfortunately. This is downstairs in my house. The pipework disappears behind the units but the main waste stack is only 1m away (also indoors), so I'd be fairly certain that it connects into there.

My kitchen sink has quite abruptly become blocked, to the point it is taking an hour to drain away when full. It has 2 basket strainers and both are equally blocked. After unsuccessfully trying one of those bottles of sink unblocker, I ventured under the sink to remove the trap. However, I...

Those house bricks should be properly cemented in place to stop anything from the block paving washing out. Are they loose? Anything you put under the blocks and try to compact will just move the bricks if they aren't secure. A bed of dry mix mortar under the sunken blocks might buy you a year...

The 'safe' way to do it is 1) tile the wall except for the bottom row 2) tile the floor 3) tile wall bottom row Cut the bottom row about 1-2mm shy of the floor tile and put a bead of clear sealant in the gap when its dry.

I'd probably use a 6mm or 8mm square notch depending on the condition of the wall, which will give you 3 or 4mm finished adhesive thickness respectively.

I'm not sure I've ever heard of tape that you put on and paint over. There's corner jointing tape which is a metal-reinforced tape for plasterboard corners, which is filled over with Easifill before being sanded and painted, is this what you mean?

I always use synthetic for water-based these days, Wooster mainly.

Frogtape. I use the yellow one mostly as it won't peel bad surfaces.

I frog tape all feature walls, yellow one normally - far less chance of peeling your feature wall for a marginal reduction in paint-blocking ability. Another quick and dirty option if you've got nice sharp corners is to jam a large taping knife right in there as a shield - make sure you wipe...

I've had loads of problems with this in the past. Some walls I scraped everything off as best I could then got it skimmed without any further prep other than PVA. Some walls I managed to salvage by scraping, making flat with easifill and then gardz on the whole wall to give it a uniform seal...

I think I'd go with concrete/insulation/screed personally. Also worth bearing in mind that although snooker tables are heavy, it isn't too much difference to the load a parked car exerts on the driveway or if 10 big blokes each stood in a room on one leg. I don't think you'll have too many...

Sand it to take the shine off the gloss, and give it a coat of something like Leyland Acrylic undercoat before applying the quick-dry satin.

The bond between chrome and most paint should be quite poor - can you just use a fingernail or is there too much paint? Paint stripper should work without damage though if the chrome is sound.

Fine surface filler adhesion direct to bare plaster is poor in my experience. I would do the following: 1) Mist coat the bare plaster with a watered down standard matt emulsion (not a bathroom one, the mould resistant chemicals aren't great for mist coats) 2) Do any fine surface filling/sanding...