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Could someone give me some advice on sharpening plane blades on an oil stone as I'm not having much luck getting them sharp so I don't know if its my technique or the oil stone is the problem. I want to sharpen without a secondary bevel so if regrind the primary bevel on the course side it...

The honing guide I'm using says to use a 50mm projection for a 25 degree bevel but it's giving more like a 26/27 degree bevel. The plane blade with the 23 bevel is from a second hand block plane The honing guide I'm using says to use a 50mm projection for a 25 degree bevel but it's giving more...

I have 3 block plane blades that has a primary bevel of 23, 24 and 25 degrees so I want to sharpen them all to 25 degrees but when I set the projection on the blade with the 25 degree bevel using a eclipse type honing guide should I only be sharpening at the tip of the blade.

I bought a set of brake discs and I thought they was faulty due to them having a machine mark but it turns out they are balancing marks but should I be worried that on one disc the balance mark is about 20mm then on the other disc the length of the balance mark is about 90mm. I've also noticed...

I tried google The link is for equivalent battery numbers from other manufacturers but it don't tell you what's the difference between two types of 395 batteries. I've been looking on ebay and you can buy a 399/395 battery and a 395 battery.

They wouldn't give her a price just for the battery but they did say if you buy a battery from them they would fit it for free. She went to another jewellers and they wanted £6 for a battery with or without fitting.

I'm looking to buy a 395 watch battery so my girlfriend went to the jewellers and they said they need the watch as there is different types of 395 batteries but is this true.

Would you have a link to what paper you would use as I cannot buy 40 or 60 grit around me and the stuff they have in poundland looks rubbish. I seen a video on youtube where they tried to flatten a hock blade on a diamond stone but when they found out it had a belly they used the ruler trick...

If i start with 40 grit what type should I buy.

The iron is from workshop heaven but I haven't contacted them as I didn't check how flat the iron was before I started using sandpaper. Are you using the ultex diamond stones from ITS and if so what grit do you use. I have been using 120 and 80 grit alox sandpaper but I will try the silicon...

The plane iron is made by ray iles and I think it was about £25 new.

The dark spot is blue marker pen from where the iron is dubbed over and the sandpaper is not touching. Have you got a link to the grit you use.

I'm using 10mm float glass resting on my hop up. That's not my plane iron in the photo but it's the exact problem I'm having so maybe I'm using to much pressure. What diamond plate do you use as the two I have are rubbish.

I don't know what's the proper name but I've just added a photo.

I'm trying to flatten the back of a new plane iron with 120 grit sandpaper on glass but I keep dubbing the edge so could someone tell me what I'm doing wrong. I though it was because I've not stuck the sandpaper down but I've read people are having the same problem when they stick the sandpaper...

I only used the electric sander to remove the paint back to bare wood and I wish I hadn't now. If you was to sand the frame to make it square what would you use to scribe a straight line all away around the frame. I was thinking of using a piece of architrave but is there a tool I could use.

A new door frame would be best but as it's a council house I don't want to waste money. I did think about using wood filler but I wasn't sure if it would be strong enough and trying to get a square edge with filler I've used in the past is not easy. The best method seems to be sand the frame so...

I don't have a picture so I took one from the internet to try and explain. Where the black line is this should be a nice square edge but where I sanded the frame it's now more like a squiggly line. If you measure from the margin line to the edge of the door frame the measurements could be 6mm in...

I've made a mistake of sanding down my door frame with an electric sander and now the edge of the door frame is not square so it makes it hard to get a 6mm reveal so I can fit architrave. So could someone tell me what's the best way to get the frame square again so I can fit the architrave.

I had a carpet laid in my living room but the metal door strip has come loose so I tried to nail it back down but the nails are going in to some sort of old bitumen dpc so the nails won't hold. So what i was thinking of doing is to remove just enough bitumen and lay a sand and cement mix but as...