How do i make the edge of my door frame square

[harlow]

I've made a mistake of sanding down my door frame with an electric sander and now the edge of the door frame is not square so it makes it hard to get a 6mm reveal so I can fit architrave. So could someone tell me what's the best way to get the frame square again so I can fit the architrave.

 

[foxhole]

Pic?

 

[harlow]

Pic?

I don't have a picture so I took one from the internet to try and explain. Where the black line is this should be a nice square edge but where I sanded the frame it's now more like a squiggly line. If you measure from the margin line to the edge of the door frame the measurements could be 6mm in one part then 4mm in another part and so on.

 

[^woody^]

Filler

 

[Gerrydelasel]

Various opitons:
1) Filler (but it's so thin on a corner that it might chip?);
2) Sand the edges all the way round so it looks uniform, and use a larger reveal;
3) Line the casing with some MDF with nice square edges (fill gaps and trim door accordingly).

 

[Roger928]

Fit a new door frame.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

New door frame, maybe? May be possible with filler with some caveats - first off the filler must be 2-pack filler and secondly before you start filling you will need to knock in quite a few panel pins to the badly dubbed-over edges leaving the heads slightly exposed so that the (2-pack) filler has some additional support when you apply it. 2-pack filler just won't adhere in thin strips, but is reasonably hard once set. 1-shot fillers are really for decorators and shouldn't be used in any form of reasonable woodworking IMHO. When the 2-pack has gone off make up some sanding boards by glueing 100 or 120 grit sandpaper onto some suitably-sized offcuts of 18mm MDF and use these sanding boards judiciously to give a nice square edge (rather like giant versions of the emery boards you girlfriend/missus/significant other may use on her nails, but a lot more rigid). By 2-pack I mean 2-pack wood filler or even 2-pack car body filler if you intend to paint finish. Should be applied with a very flexible metal stopping/filling knife which has had the corners smoothed off (so it won't leave tracks).

 

[harlow]

make up some sanding boards rather like giant versions of the emery boards your girlfriend/missus may use on her nails.

A new door frame would be best but as it's a council house I don't want to waste money. I did think about using wood filler but I wasn't sure if it would be strong enough and trying to get a square edge with filler I've used in the past is not easy. The best method seems to be sand the frame so it's all uniform.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You asked about getting back to having a square frame. That is not really possible using an electric sander which will always end up dubbing the edges over

 

[harlow]

You asked about getting back to having a square frame. That is not really possible using an electric sander which will always end up dubbing the edges over

I only used the electric sander to remove the paint back to bare wood and I wish I hadn't now. If you was to sand the frame to make it square what would you use to scribe a straight line all away around the frame. I was thinking of using a piece of architrave but is there a tool I could use.

 

[Gerrydelasel]

The best method seems to be sand the frame so it's all uniform.

Just to be clear, I meant sand it so it is uniformaly rounded all around. It would take forever to sand it square.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you was to sand the frame to make it square what would you use to scribe a straight line all away around the frame. I was thinking of using a piece of architrave but is there a tool I could use.

You just won't be able to sand it back square - it simply isn't possible to prevent a DIY sander from dubbing over the edges. If you start reducing the faces to get a square corner you may end up taking the edge of the casing below the level of the plasterwork around the door which will create other problems. When I've had to put right thi sort of thing in the past (generally only on old, very worn casings) I've used the pin and 2-pack filler technique