How do you use a honing guide to sharpen plane blades

[harlow]

I have 3 block plane blades that has a primary bevel of 23, 24 and 25 degrees so I want to sharpen them all to 25 degrees but when I set the projection on the blade with the 25 degree bevel using a eclipse type honing guide should I only be sharpening at the tip of the blade.

 

[pete50]

Lots of info here. To be honest I have one and find it difficult to use properly. "Experts" say don't use one and do it by hand and eye which I find even more difficult.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?sou...6...0i131k1j0i10k1j0i22i10i30k1.0.4-zSPmmiFh0

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I want to sharpen them all to 25 degrees but when I set the projection on the blade with the 25 degree bevel using a eclipse type honing guide should I only be sharpening at the tip of the blade.

If that is happening then either you are setting the blade incorrectly in the honing jig (insufficient projection) or the plane iron isn't actually sharpened at the angles stated. It could also be that the blades have a hollow grind from a small diameter (under 8in/200mm) grinding wheel which leaves a hollow across the bevel. In point of fact it matters little whether or not the attack angle of the blade is exactly 25° - 27° to 23° (or in other words a few degrees off) will also work, especially if you hone a micro bevel of about 30° after you have finished sharpening. This micro bevel will provide a stronger and therefore more durable edge and can be touched-up rapidly freehand during a planing session

As to "Experts"? Are we talking about those OCD gurus who inhabit the woodworking magazines and many American fora, these days (and more than a few British ones for that matter)? Many of them seem never to have actually earned a living using hand tools - otherwise they'd realise that getting and keeping a sharp edge needs to be a quick and simple process without the concentration of a Buddist monk. I have almost 50 years of sharpening and honing under my belt (most as a joiner) yet I still use a jig to do my initial grinding (OK, on a bench grinder) before swapping to a figure of 8 motion on stones for final sharpening and honing. I will admit that it takes time and practise to master the "art", and for those who have neither a honing jig will get you'll a lot nearer by using a low cost jig than trying (and failing) to do it by "rack of eye" and feel. All that results in is rounded bevels in my experience

 

[harlow]

The honing guide I'm using says to use a 50mm projection for a 25 degree bevel but it's giving more like a 26/27 degree bevel. The plane blade with the 23 bevel is from a second hand block plane

If that is happening then either you are setting the blade incorrectly in the honing jig (insufficient projection) or the plane iron isn't actually sharpened at the angles stated. It could also be that the blades have a hollow grind from a small diameter (under 8in/200mm) grinding wheel which leaves a hollow across the bevel. In point of fact it matters little whether or not the attack angle of the blade is exactly 25° - 27° to 23° (or in other words a few degrees off) will also work, especially if you hone a micro bevel of about 30° after you have finished sharpening. This micro bevel will provide a stronger and therefore more durable edge and can be touched-up rapidly freehand during a planing session

As to "Experts"? Are we talking about those OCD gurus who inhabit the woodworking magazines and many American fora, these days (and more than a few British ones for that matter)? Many of them seem never to have actually earned a living using hand tools - otherwise they'd realise that getting and keeping a sharp edge needs to be a quick and simple process without the concentration of a Buddist monk. I have almost 50 years of sharpening and honing under my belt (most as a joiner) yet I still use a jig to do my initial grinding (OK, on a bench grinder) before swapping to a figure of 8 motion on stones for final sharpening and honing. I will admit that it takes time and practise to master the "art", and for those who have neither a honing jig will get you'll a lot nearer by using a low cost jig than trying (and failing) to do it by "rack of eye" and feel. All that results in is rounded bevels in my experience

The honing guide I'm using says to use a 50mm projection for a 25 degree bevel but it's giving more like a 26/27 degree bevel. The plane blade with the 23 bevel is from a second hand block plane but it doesn't look like it has a hollow grind. The plane blade with the 24 degree bevel is a new ashley ilse and the plane blade with the 25 degree is a old stanley blade that was still in it's packaging.

 

[blup]

You could get it professionally ground and honed to the required angle then you'll find it much easier to sharpen it. Just a few strokes on a diamond sharpening stone or a good quality oilstone.

The biggest mistake people make is overdoing the honing, only a few strokes are needed to keep the blade sharp; that, and removing the wire edge from the reverse side.

Blup

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The honing guide I'm using says to use a 50mm projection for a 25 degree bevel but it's giving more like a 26/27 degree bevel. The plane blade with the 23 bevel is from a second hand block plane

The honing guide I'm using says to use a 50mm projection for a 25 degree bevel but it's giving more like a 26/27 degree bevel. The plane blade with the 23 bevel is from a second hand block plane but it doesn't look like it has a hollow grind. The plane blade with the 24 degree bevel is a new ashley ilse and the plane blade with the 25 degree is a old stanley blade that was still in it's packaging.

I think you are just being OCD. As I said, the actual angle doesn't need to be EXACT. The main thing is that it is somewhere near the right angle, and that the plane works! Do your planes work? Once you can plane wood with them the angle can be adjusted to deal with different timbers; e.g. oak and other hardwoods will plane better at 30 degrees primary bevel whilst some softwoods work better with an angle as low as 20 degrees, although the "norm" is around 25 degrees primary bevel. It's all trial and error

 

[aesmith]

The OP's speaking about a block plane, which I assume would be bevel up. So the angle does matter, although maybe not to the last degree. What I'd do if I had a honing jig I didn't trust, is to make a couple of templates for the angles I normally use, then set the blade and check the angle. Make a note of the projection for future reference.