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I would have thought the 1/2" would screw into that tap. I doubt if it is anywhere near the age of the house. Having said that, I don't know what you paid for the kit, but it would have gone a long way towards a new tap. It looks like someone's had a right fit with that one.

It all depends on the relative settings of the thermostats. Presumably the wall stat is a full system thermostat and controls the whole system whereas the TRV are specific to one room. Surely the normal set up would have a full system control in a relatively open area, with localised control for...

Your pictures of a kitchen tap and cold water pipe do not match your titles

No spark is indicative of either photocell fault, faulty transformer or control box. When the spark fails, after checking the electrode connections and leads, disconnect the transformer lead and check for voltage at the plug. If there is no power then you've probably found the fault. To...

What burner are we talking about, and is it down firing from the top or horizontal from the front?

Is this a boiler with a down firing burner?

The flat sides need to be at 90 degrees to the pipe to be closed. You may find there is no positive stop to the valve if it is a ball that is operated. What do you have at the other end of the filling loop? If that is closed, then it will also stop the flow.

Later boilers 'just out of warranty' of any make do not last as long as their predecessors. The replacement of parts such as photocells or pump coils is a fact of life with any boiler. Whilst the modern control box may give signals indicating faults to be told 'no flame detected' is not...

Is it the red light on the control box? Have you tried pushing it? That is a very old burner and if the control box has failed, whilst it is possible to replace with a newer box, you may be halfway to the cost of a complete new burner.

Don't forget you may have in line filters fitted that will also need bleeding. Follow the oil line from the tank all the way to the burner to check for other bleed needs.

Have you pressed the reset button on the control box on the burner?

What model burner do you have? The pressure port usually used is the conveniently placed lower hexagon screw below the pressure adjuster. What problems do you actually have?

With the greatest respect, asking a question such as this does suggest you should not be messing with your burner.

Consult the manufacturer's instruction easily available on line. This valve differs from many.

Basically it needs to be above the height of the burner but as Muggles says, on a long run or one with many turns, a larger bore pipe may be needed .

Maybe the reward for a return trip coupled with the low cost of the part would not be sufficient for the job. I doubt you would be happy with a £50+ bill for the repair.

If the burner fires before the control box initiates the solenoid then it will lock out as a false flame. It would appear that the solenoid valve is passing as when you turn pressure right down it operates correctly. Clean out the solenoid port and if it still fails, replace the pump.

Is this a combi or heat only boiler? Either way I can't see it being a timer/programmer problem, but more a control/DHW thermostat OR a circulation problem within the system.

There is a flange gasket that may have degraded over time. More often though the leak is from the access panel or flue connections. With an analyser, the source of the leak is soon identified.

Can you not use fixings on the inside of the brackets? They would be less intrusive there.