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This is on a house we are working on at the moment. Surely that ain’t right?!

Not possible for me, I’ve have to block up one side to make it even, and the bricks are terrible

Thanks Doggit, that was what I assumed. I was under the impression that the inside of the fireplace should have a lime render applied (cement, lime, plastering sand) to cope better with the temperature changes? Ultimately there will be a log burner in there. Please advise if something else...

If one of you knowledgeable folk could let me know by the weekend that would be grand!

Need to render the inside of my fireplace. Do I need hydraulic or non hydraulic for the mix? Cheers guys

You want a door casing really. Have bought one off of these guys before as needed 11inch wide, not cheap cheap but was good quality and arrived quickly! https://www.jastimber.co.uk/door-casing-set-internal

Just having some new business cards made up. I don't particularly want my full address on there due to security reasons, is it the norm to have full address on there? Don't want to come across as a gypo with no fixed abode! Home number will be on the cards but ex directory. Thanks in advance

Why is everyone recommending ply as an overlay over the t&g to tile on, when 6mm cement board glued and screwed is far superior? All the people mentioning the use of ply don't even recommend sealing the underside and edges with sbr, which is crucial if you did decide to go down the ply route to...

Thanks for your reply. Bringing it 25mm in front of studs might disrupt quite a lot of fittings, especially round the window etc. Would something like this work stapled over the joists and celotex, acting as a vapour barrier too...

After some insulation advice. Currently ripping apart an old loft conversion at my mum's house. The conversion was done well, but with a severe lack of insulation (none in places) and gets extremely cold in the winter and very hot in the summer. As you can see we are taking down all old boards...

All white or some white? Do you mind pine on show on some? Why wouldn't you just order through a local merchants so if any are that bad you can sort it or with them direct? Or are you trying to save a pound through on online retailer? Maybe try eBay, I'm sure you can get some cheap top notch...

Either pine or a hardwood such as oak? What finish do you want?

I've used plenty of wickes linings in the past. You do have to be selective as some are warped/ bowed, but most aren't too bad. Some can be a bit rough and knotty, but as long as you prep them up correctly i.e. sand, knot all the knots, decent paint and sand between coats they come up just fine.

Thanks. Fitted it all today and tested before boarding/tiling and all is well.

Currently installing something similar to this: https://victoriaplum.com/product/mode-matrix-square-triple-thermostatic-shower-valve-with-diverter-conc04 Fitment of connections to the valve itself are not a problem. I plan to use a wall plate elbow for the shower head pipe coming out of the...

I'll elaborate some more on the tanking if you're not aware what it is...

If it's plasterboard it will need tanking before it is tiled

Will have a look in to a control strip then. The only reason I have gone for quickset cement is that it can be tiled over after 48 hours, whereas a normal sand and cement screed I could have to wait 4-6 weeks t that depth?

Thanks for the reply. The solid floor is the high floor. Today I have removed all the tiles, and dug about 100mm out below them. They were laid on about 20/30mm screed/concrete, with compacted soil and hardcore under. My plan now is as follows: The suspended timber floor is very solid, so...

See pic below. Basically that small separate room was used as a cupboard, which is now being turned in to a shower with a low level tray. The floor in here is made up of old Victorian quarry tiles which are pretty soiled. The bathroom itself has a suspended floor. The trouble is the shower...