Search results

Dan, the first strap you have linked might be ok but I think you might misunderstand the principle. I am not a structural engineer, I am a building surveyor but the general principle is to fit an external wall plate to spread the load across the brickwork. The tie rod goes through the wall and...

Thanks Xenon. I got your response too late but tapered insulation is the way I went

Hi All, I'd appreciate your views on the best way to correct falls on an asphalt covered balcony deck. The balconies are very poorly designed and have falls towards the building of circa 3 degrees. Balconies are flooding during heavy rainfall and breaching the upstands and flashings so I am...

I'm putting together a rough order of costs for a high rise block in London. It was a building I recently surveyed to establish the cause of water ingress. It needs all the metal copings replacing on the roof parapet and I'm wondering if anyone can give me a clue as to the cost of edge...

Or you could just check here... http://www.aic.org.uk/Storageheaters.htm

I don't even know where to start with everything thats wrong with this one! Feel free to PM me Flavella and I'll talk it through with you. Bit busy on a project tonight to take the time out to comment.

He got both points wrong with regard to the set of hydraulic and non hydraulic lime. Suggesting one sets in air whilst the other sets in water. The clear suggestion being that hydraulic lime needs to be in water to set. That it can set it water is because it contains Pozzolans that give it a...

Pinenots last words of wisdom on lime plaster were to suggest that hydraulic lime dries under water! :shock: Which particular source backs up that crack pot idea?

When did I ever suggest drying out the original plaster?? It was always assumed from the original post that this was to be hacked out. Leaving that aside are you so condescending as to think any other items in the room will be unaffected by removing moisture, a fool and his money I... don't...

Found mine off Gumtree but you have to be tough. The first sign of problems and I get rid. One guy worked well when I was around and did next to nothing when I wasn't. He was warned once about this and sacked off the job on day two after a continuation of the problem. One of the best I found was...

I've just doubled the size of my garage for circa £5k and I could easily have rebuilt it for £12k. The trick is to break it down and shop around for materials. Simply got a labourer to clear the land and dig the trench down to clay for the foundations. £600 including concrete and skip...

I think you've nailed it, those sort of rates are only available when buying in volume.

Of course there is but the same danger exists if you pay £160 per cubic metre. Your average member of the public is unlikely to do a slump test or cube testing.

Had a phone round (4 different companies) and got it for £120 per cube inclusive of vat. Still a big saving on what I've just paid but don't know where all the £80-£100 companies are.

I'm unsure why you would screed, is the new hearth smaller than the old one? If not them this seems to have been over complicated and I'd simply level and bed the hearth on mortar.

I know, somewhere between £80-100 seems the norm but will they come to me from Essex? I'll ring round if I need to but I don't really have time and want it for Saturday morning, hence the post on here.

I would never 'slake' you off Pinenot, your posts are amusing enough not to be taken seriously. I particularly enjoyed your latest suggestion to empty the room of anything the OP doesn't want the moisture extracting from. Can only assume you mean family pets, swimming pools, etc. There is no...

Yes, and it always runs downhill!

I recently paid £160 per cubic metre or concrete readymix delivered to Nottingham. In retrospect this seems over the odds but I only used them because the same company was supplying my skips. Can anyone recommend someone in Nottingham or the East Midlands that supplies readymix at more...

No, this will only make the damp problem worse. An old chimney remains damp because it is lined with hygroscopic salts, these are a by product of the combustion process and will continually draw in moisture from the air ensuring the chimney remains damp. When you decommission an old chimney you...