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I’m looking to repaint my kitchen tomorrow. The walls are nice and smoothly plastered but the previous owner used a “kitchen paint” (dulux) that has a sheen to it. I’m wanting to matt emulsion the ceiling white and walls in a valspar matt 700 emulsion. How do I prepare the walls and ceiling...

Well, it surfaces in my kitchen there. There’s a small amount of renovation screed on it but not that much. Is that a problem?

Yes there’s an insert on that end. That actually cost nearly as much as the fitting itself o_O

Thanks for that advice, they look great fittings. Found a local supplier of Plasson and they’ve sold me a nice 21.5mm to 15mm fitting. Hopefully that should do the trick.

I had a slight weep on the join between the black allathene pipe and the copper where the mains water enters my kitchen after the water board fitted a meter. They came to fix it but it’s made it worse! Rather than call them out again (I don’t have time as my new kitchen is being fitted on...

Has anyone got any experience with their EPS 400 board system please? I’ve just laid a zone and when I got back to the manifold I cut the pipe to the right length. When I did, there was a heck of a lot of pressure built up in the 16mm pipe. Now the pressure is out of the pipe it seems the that...

Brilliant, thanks for that. Really appreciate it.

Disconnected my alarm keypad to protect it while plastering was going on. Now lost the tiny resistor shown in the picture. Is it important to have it? Can I buy a replacement? Thanks.

Thanks. Is this stuff much different to regular silicone? Is it the sorta stuff that goes a bit harder rather than staying shiny and soft? Thanks again.

How about his bit?

Thanks. That gives just about the right amount then?

Thanks. How about the gap between the window cill and the frame. The reason I ask is because it’s not being painted as it’s laminate window board.

After fresh plastering, what would you suggest using to seal around the window on the inside for decoration? What would you use in the small gap between the window cill and the frame? Photo attached. Thanks.

What length of cable would you say is ideal for the twin and earth the back box of lighting and sockets etc? Too long means the cable gets in the way. Too short makes it difficult for a visual inspection etc. Thanks.

Now plasterboard is off I can see that the previous owner/builder used very flexible restraint straps to connect the intense block skin to the wall plate. While it’s exposed, would you suggest adding some better ones? If so, looking at wickes website there are a range on there... which ones...

Brilliant, that’s great. Thanks for the advice.

Just wondered how essential you think it is to fix this crack before boarding and skimming. There doesn’t seem to be any movement or issue with it but I’d rather have piece of mind that it won’t mind before it’s boarded and skimmed. If you think it’s worth fixing, what would you do to fix it...

Brilliant thanks. So two layers of 12.5mm PB or 1 layer of fireline 12.5mm PB? Put noggins in the flange and fix timber to it to PB the sides and underside of the RSJ?

I have a feeling that RSJ's need to be cased in a certain way before plastering? Does this mean I need to use pink (fireline boards) instead of regular boards? Thanks

Brilliant, thanks for that!