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Hold the front page! My Dad’s just found the cover plate which had gone AWOL; It’s a Mira 723 Having found that out, next question is: what causes the thermostat to lock solid? I understand it got progressively stiffer, so i’m hoping a service/seal kit, clean and grease up will sort it out..

My parent’s 30 year old shower has a seized thermostat; I’d like to have go at repairing it, but I can’t find any distinguishing labels or logos. My Dad has an idea it is a Mira model.. that’s all I have to go on. I’ll try and attach a few images.. Thanks in advance!

Any Intergas/Atmos installers available for quoting on a job in Didsbury/Stockport? My mother in law's back-boiler is finally, after fifty years, giving up the ghost.. so not a straightforward replacement job, but a new boiler install. Thanks!

We're trying to find the paperwork/quotes at the moment.. but if there is a basic good practice or building regs. requirement, applicable at the time, are a reputable company not obliged to make good the work? It's not as if the tiles have eroded or moved! I' (think) I've managed to attach a few...

Brilliant, thanks Oldbutnotdead, that's exactly what I need to know. First I'll try and track down this pesky roofer...

Thanks guys, that looks like the way to go. However all the guides I've seen so far show the trays going on before the tiles, and nailing to the top of the soffit, which would've been so easy if done at the time. Is it not possible to slip them under the edge of the front tiles without removing...

My partner had her C.1895 roof retiled about three years ago; (retiled with real slate) on the face of it it all looks good: but yesterday I got up close as I was clearing the gutters, and I was shocked to see that the lower run of tiles barely makes it over the lip of the gutter: probably 10mm...

OK, maybe I should've worded the post differently. Or maybe just not bothered. My point is that using a pressure switch as a 'safety feature' (rather than, say a flow sensor, or quick-acting thermostat or thermal trip) is crude and prone to nuisance tripping; it trips when the flow is at it's...

"If the pressure is too low then the flow through the chamber will be insufficient to safely remove the heat generated".. that is precisely the opposite of what is happening in practise, which is my point: as you increase the flow on the control, cooling the shower, naturally the dynamic...

Sorry Ian, I was interested in discussing this as a general product design question, independent of my specific shower problems: Low pressure cut-outs on showers; retrograde design decision with few safety benefits? Discuss.

If my loft is on the cusp of acceptable pressure/flow rate, my next question is how to resolve this. It has a fairly straight 15mm supply from the ground floor, unfortunately difficult access to swap out to 22mm. I've installed full bore service valve atleast. Researching pump options; it...

I guess what I'm arguing is that the 'pressure cut-in' is a a very crude mechanism that works against the the actual shower mechanism in practise: Which is, that with a gentle but perfectly useable maximum flow through the shower, the pressure switch cuts out randomly. If you turn the flow down...

After my recent travails with a new Triton T80, I am intrigued as to what purpose the pressure switch plays in these showers: In an installation like mine, that appears to be at the limits of the required flow rate/pressure (and it varies throughout the day) to cool the shower (by increasing the...

All tests have been done without the shower head on John.

Just installed a Triton T80 10.5Kw Easi-fit, to replace an old Aqualisa. The old shower didn't have a 'cool' opttion, so in summer it was always too hot, even on the low rate option. The Triton has a cold option at least. However, it's beginning to look like I have a pressure/flow problem, as...

An old thread, but as I have just gone through a similar job, I thought I'd give you my 'pennies worth.. I used some Hardiebacker (or similar) I had lying around as a tiled bath panel, but rather than trust to screwing the Type 2 Fixes (Button-Fix) directly to the rather friable board, I used...

I use a Remeha isense RF (wireless model) with my Combi Compact; It works great with the external sensor, and was practically plug and play, although I did need an old phone charger to get the 5v required for the reciever. As I recall, there are more advanced settings available (heating curves...

I have just been on the phone to Vaillant, with the question: Is there any reason why I can't run a VRC 470F wireless thermostat from a VR65 control centre connected to a Ecotec Plus 438 boiler. It turns out the VRC 470F is now superseded by the VRC 700F; and after some cogitation, thinks it...

That was the next option; just thought it would be worth finding somebody off the forum, as I have a higher opinion of those who post on here than the average installer.

Any Intergas accredited installers willing to travel to Stafford??