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You mean the chrome nut on a brass connector? It's up in the loft, so I'm not worried about it looking pretty. I was thinking that maybe chrome and brass have different expansion properties, and that mixing fittings was a definite no no.

I had a burst pipe last month and fitted a 300 mm flexible connector as a temporary fix. I have now replaced this with a length of copper pipe (see pic). Everything is watertight, but thinking back, I may have broken some good plumbing guidelines. * Is it OK to reuse the existing olive...

A stop cock/tap in the loft is seized up. It's similar to this type, basically a brass tap with compression fittings: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/31490/Plumbing/Brassware/Flowflex-15mm-Stop-Cock I've tried WD40. Any other ideas?

[/url] As the iso valve is on the cold water mains pipe, is a full bore valve needed? A cheapo valve might restrict flow to the cistern, maybe?

I might replace it with something more expensive. Maybe one of those Pegler valves, with a bigger handle. Like this: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13103/Plumbing/Brassware/Full-Bore-Lever-Ball-Valve-15mm

I fitted an isolation valve on the mains water feed, next to the cold water tank in the loft. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89226/Plumbing/Brassware/Flowflex-Isolating-Valve-With-Handle-15mm I've just noticed that I fitted it with the arrow in the wrong direction. The arrow points down to...

I'm not sure. Maybe because I had a burst pipe. I removed some loft insulation, so maybe the loft is warmer than it should be?

I meant the bottom inch on the sides of the tank, where most of the condensation collects.

My plastic water tank in the loft has a "padded" sleeve, plus a plastic top which I made myself. On some mornings, there is still a lot of condensation at the bottom of the tank, where it sits on the plywood platform. As far as i can see, the condensation has not run down the tank to the...

To my amateur eye: Surely, if the olive joint fails, then PFTE on the thread will keep the joint watertight. So the PFTE on the thread acts as a back up in this case. Also, won't a wrap of FTPE on the thread make a tap connector connection more secure?

Ok, I might think about changing my compression joint technique by using a wrap of PFTE around the olive.

To stop a long thread, I willassume that it comes down to preference in the end.

So far in my limited DIY plumbing career I have been using the following procedure for compression joints: 1 wrap of PFTE around the male connector Hand tighten Tighten 1 turn using spanners It seems to work most times :) But I have read a lot of posts from people who wrap a turn the...

I think modern floats must use a different thread to the old one. I went to Homebase and bought a slightly different design of float. I eventually managed to force it on and get it threaded on fast. 5 mins job, took me about 2 hours!

In this case, access is difficult and I am working blind. That makes a simple job much more difficult.

Trying to replace the ballcock float in my cold water tank. I unscrewed the old one. Drained the tank to half way. Now I can't refit the new float, or the old one. Access is restricted, I have to reach over the side and try to screw the float on the arm. But so far, no success. Any ideas...

Well, the plumbing has worked well enough. Until this week :( All pipes had foam insulation sleeves. I've bought some thicker sleeves, but in some areas where pipes run close together there is not enough room. Any ideas on why a cold water tank overflow has suddenly developed?