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I've had a structural engineer in to look at a couple of walls, and he's made some recommendations: Move purlin support in loft from Wall A to Wall B (they are approx. 1m apart) After which I can remove Wall A, as it would no longer bear the load of the roof Bolt 2 new roof joists of...

I will have it capped by a professional in January. Is it safe to turn the valve off and remove it for now though?

Never had any gas appliances, but the new house came with a gas cooker. We have an induction cooker, which luckily is the exact same dimension. So I figured I'd pop the old gas HOB out and put the new induction cooker in. Trouble is, I don't know anything about gas. Is it just a matter of...

This might be a silly question, but is there any reason to not put the self leveler on top of the tiles itself? I guess adhesion might be an issue.

What would you seal the bitumen/adhesive with?

Impressive stuff!

Thanks for all the advice. I've finished filling the cracks I opened in the smallest bedroom. Will give it a couple of weeks to see if any cracks re-appear. If not, I might bite the bullet and do some of the other rooms too. It they do re-appear, I guess lining paper will be my only option...

I really dislike lining paper, but I've spent the last 3 days opening up every single crack in the smallest room in the house with a triangular tool, rubbing some PVA in there and filling it with fine filler and I can't see myself doing that in every room in the house. :( Note, this is a...

The external walls are brick, I've not drilled through in to the wall yet, but similar internal walls are built from concrete blocks. Neither can I, but I'm no expert. Not yet, will do that later today. As far as I can tell there have been no changes to the house since it was built, but we...

Different wall, as it's very difficult to take a decent picture. I tried editing it a bit, but you might need to zoom/look very closely. None of the cracks are very large, the problem is they are everywhere. Almost every single wall seems to have them to some degree, with the internal walls...

Just moved in to a new house and within 3 weeks of moving in, I've noticed that most walls look like that porcelain with cracks in it. It wasn't immediately obvious, but the more we live in it, the more obvious it is becoming. Some walls have it really badly too. I initially got quite worried...

No expert, but have looked at something similar recently and I worked out that it came out to roughly the same cost wise. The biggest difference I saw was that I felt much more comfortable screwing panels together and putting cladding up than I did laying blocks and bricks. Which meant that it...

Finally have another picture (life got in the way). Joist 1 sits near the blue line depicting the built in cupboard wall in bedroom 2, but isn't exactly underneath it. Distance from Joist 1 to Joist 2 is 400mm Distance from Joist 2 to Joist 3 is 340mm Distance from Joist 2 to the "strange...

The internal structural wall to be removed is "only" 3.3m long and it's a single block wall. The engineer I spoke with said he charged a flat fee of 360 GBP ex. VAT per wall, which included calculations for the RSJ. So I asked him about the walls I believe are non-load-bearing and whether he...

I want to remove 4 internal walls: Load bearing wall on the ground floor Possible load bearing wall on first floor (above wall in point 1) Non-load bearing wall on first floor Tiny little non-load bearing wall Not quite sure about how to best approach this, so before spending 1200 GBP (only...

I have a similar job coming up on similarly aged property. So curious to know if it makes a difference if they are tiles or sheets of lino? Was either not around when they were still using asbestos? On a similar note, what would you do then? Can you tile over the vinyl/lino?

Depends on the oak beam, if you have a picture of it I might be able to advice better. But I'd probably stick with powertools when it comes to oak. Depending on the size, anything from a chainsaw to drilling lots of holes (or a plunge saw or circular saw could work too). Edit: All this is on...

You can significantly lighten that oak beam by hollowing it out...

This advice would've saved me hours. Days even. How big is the wall? How many patches like this do you have? Are there other areas like this one, even tiny ones? Or blisters? I like Gyproc Easi Fill, but trust me depending on the answers above... it might not be worth it.

You're in for some pain, I fear. That's not a coat of primer/sealer, that's some old coats of paint. They've partially come off the wall when you stripped of the wallpaper. I've dealt with this myself in the past and it was an absolute pain in the backside, so I hope someone here has some...