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Andy, your flow temp's seems fine, mine runs at 50 / 55** and the return is dependent on the heat in the screed warming up so again my return when all rooms are up to temp is around 40* (designed 10* diff between flow and return) It will be difficult to establish individual circuit temps when...

Terrywookfit did you not read the first line of my thread! The original blender failed The "like for like replacement valve" was faulty so Reliance are dispatching another with haste (now in my second week of waiting) The thread relates to protecting the screed and floor covering (tiles & wood...

I have a failed Reliance blending valve on my UFH manifold that is still awaiting it's replacement. but the issue is with protecting the screed floor. I have a Honeywell overheat switch sat on the manifold set at 60* and wired to stop the pump in over temperature condition. The problem is the...

Hello Andy, me again. What is the flow and return water temp at the ground floor manifold? What happens when the dining and lounge stats are at room temp and off and the first floor heating off do you get more heat into the kitchen floor? The circuit actuators move a spindle for "off / on" has...

Hello Abbadon, Just some thoughts whilst reading your thread, as follows: Is the pump seeing demand because the controller is "on" even though all stats are "off" This does not explain why the pump didn't start when you turned the controller off then back to auto but the pump is getting a supply...

Please advise, I have just had a problem with a Reliance TMV on my UFH. (I changed the valve and the replacement is defective but that's another story) I noticed the problem when the boiler was heating DHW (80*) and the temp at the UFH manifold, after the TMV was 70+ The boiler normally runs the...

Hi, A question about CH pump flow rate, how can you check its ltrs/min? I have a UFH manifold (10 ports) and the combined flow rate of 7 ports with valves fully open, open is around 13 L/m The system carries three pumps one at the boiler one adjacent to the boiler and one at the UFH manifold...

Thanks

Thanks for the help, I will check out the wifi distance tomorrow If it comes to "running a cable" (I presume a Ethernet from the Hub) what would I need to do at the other end?

This is not related to the last thread I have broadband coming into the house from the BT master and it terminates in a BT hub 5 in my study. There is cat5e data cable in all rooms that go to a patch plate then onto a TP-link desktop switch. I have connected from one of the four "yellow"...

Not the best of titles for this thread but here is the problem A new build house is approx 1.5 mtrs distance from an existing house that will be demolished when the new house is complete. The broadband hub has now been moved from the existing house to the new but I still need wifi in the...

I have a steam room that I grouted with apoxy resin about 15 years ago and the grout is becoming dull in places, showing signs of age. The tiles are all Ok and are secure (ceramic tiles backed on screed-ed walls and non-slip floor tiles) so I am wanting to re-grout, what do I need to do? Thanks

The engineer is installing a Grant 45kW boiler (600 mt sq floor area) but the problem I have is the thought of that size boiler satisfying one room in the house whereas a modulating boiler would turn down to around 8kW thus running longer.

My heating engineer is about to install the CH boiler (second fix to new build which is predominantly UFH) The choice of boiler is either oil or LPG fuel (no natural gas & discounted ASHP) He says that oil is the cheaper option because apart from the cost of the oil the boiler operation is...

Not sure how you create the blue coloured box with the quotes in it as above) I dismantled the motor today, as follows The gearbox detached from the motor revolves in each direction freely. The motor revolves in each direction freely. Stripping the motor down to where the wiring enters the...

Gavin, I split the motor and the mechanical side is in good order so I fitted it to the new motor and it drives ok but in the wrong direction. It is driving the actuator to the stop where it's normally at rest. If we could get the motor to drive in the opposite direction then problem resolved...

Not sure what you want Bernard, the top of the motor casing states "SYNCHRON made in USA nothing on the underside and (SA) after the manufacturers product details shown on the previous thread. Gavin I will do what you suggest, I did this once before but the problem was mechanical Thanks Paul

Bernard, I deal with Rob (underfloor htg1) but they don't hold boiler spares. All the spares for the boilers Eco sold were bought by a couple of ex. Eco service engineers that now do the servicing for these boilers, mine included. The problem is the spares are reducing down hence this thread Paul

The original motor and a standard replacement motor are identical apart from shaft length (as photo) Original manufacture number "660F 230V 50HZ 5W 5RPM 38903R-6-121-130 0346" Replacement motor "660 240v 50HZ 5W 5RPM 38526L-5-6-130 1113 The difference is minimal, a longer...

Ian, the gas boiler is a "31/36 High efficiency Micromat EC (German) 31kW modulating to 6kW I have had it since 2000 supplied with the underfloor heating system I bought from "Eco-hometec" Doncaster now deceased. The original divertor valve and actuator are not made but alternatives are...