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Nah, its the same on all walls! The stone in it is a bit fine for sharp sand

Well from a random collection of mixes my current closest is 3 kiln dried sand (block paving style) to 1 cement. Not to bad to work with, is it going to cause me problems if I use that?

I'm trying to match the mortar below which seems to have a fine stone in it rather than a consistent sand. Would this be a certain type of building sand? If I wasn't able to match the fine stone I was trying to match the colour or get as close as possible. The issue is at the moment all of the...

Sorry, the door seals down on to block paving which is why I was hoping not to mount the sensor on the ground. I guess this isnt actually a problem? As the slats have a concave profile I was wondering about bonding a thin magnet to them which could be picked up by a contact mounted on the guide...

I don't have an photo of mine on me but its the same as the one in the photo above. Guide rails are 95mm wide and the bottom rail has the same curve as the rest of the slats

I have a domestic garage roller door with 70mm aluminium slats that I need to add an alarm contact or two to. I was wondering if any of the pros on here had some photos of how they usually do this. I can't quite figure out the best way to mount the usual roller door style contact. Ideally...

I need to get 1 x CAT5, 3 x alarm and 1 x 1.5mm2 3C+E from one side of the front door to the other at ceiling level. The front door opens into a corridor so currently the cables are the other side of a brick wall on the left and need to get to the other side of a wall on the right if that makes...

I need to cut the outer leaf of brickwork for a new door opening. This means I'd have to cut from floor level to above head height. I've got a 230mm Makita grinder with a diamond blade that I'd need cut from both sides with to get a full cut depth. Many stories of kickback and all that jazz...

Very informative. May just need some help with the interpretation in my application!

Ah I meant i know the meter box has to be 150mm away from air bricks in case of escape of case so wasnt sure if the cable entry had to be 150 away too.

(y) would you normally sleeve a bond through a single leaf? Any minimum distance recommendations from the gas sleeve / meter box?

Thanks EFLI. The bonding conductor going to the old meter location is in the cavity so i was just going to pop a hole through the outer leaf near to the gas sleeve and fish the bond wire through?

I had read that but once the works are complete the pipe will only be accessible as 22mm copper outside (for about 100mm from meter box to sleeve) and in the meter box and as 15mm copper In the upstairs airing cupboard. Between the two its hidden and it goes into black iron for about 7m in the...

SGN have just moved my gas meter from a recessed enclosure to a semi buried unibox style enclosure which sits 75mm in the ground. The input pipe is plastic and the oulet will be copper (when its finally connected up). The sleeve for the gas pipe through the cavity wall is already in place and...

I've got some copper heating, hot and cold water pipes that currently run under a screed. These look to be in a thin plastic sheath thats similar thickness to a plastic bag with some hairy felt stuff on the outside. I've chopped out about 1m of screed to the new positions. Whats the best stuff...

Granted mine will be about 120mm below DPC level so not exactly like that picture.

I'm having my front door moved and as part of that work the gas meter is being moved too. I believe the gas chap is going to join on to the existing pipe under the screed and then come out through the wall in a sleeve (im sure he said 32mm waste pipe for this) before clipping along the outside...

Superb, thank you for taking the time to write that out Tony, very informative and educational. My only other question is it ok for there to be a little piece of block and then a mortar join and then another block under the bearing? The bit to the right of the red cut line will be 30 to 50mm...

Just for my interest can you run me through that calculation? 700kg x 9.80665 = 6865N Bearing assumption was 100mm per side so 2 x 100mm x 100mm = 20000mm2 Force per mm2 = 6865N / 20000mm2 = 0.343N/mm2 For a 3.6N/mm2 block does that mean that you have to apply a safety derating factor of 10...

Thanks Tony, its a bearing of 100 x 190mm or slightly more on the light weight block sections each side for a span of 920mm Its got half a row of block on top of the lintel followed by the wall plate for a lean to roof with concrete tiles on. Can't see that being too heavy as it only picks up...