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They'll dry quicker outside, I'll get the lads back round in the morning and get them moved :-) My engineer says they're fine in general but wants to check there's no risk of condensation on the ends where they sit in the external walls outside the insulation envelope. But I suspect the answer...

As I understand it, because I'm achieving 30 mins fire protection via the existing ceiling rather than any structure reliant on the new steel beams for their integrity I don't need intumescent paint. Having just carried 450kg of unpainted steel into the loft this morning, I'm wondering whether...

What you've described is a circular reference, A1a =A1b = A1a = A1b etc etc etc, both cells are formulas, neither can contain a value so it can't work. It is possible if you store the value in another cell and use VBA to update each cell from the other, but as a general rule, if you're asking...

It just needs a ceiling joists in the downstairs toilet doubling up and positioning under the Newell post. Take the load to the other Newell and to the adjacent wall. Or a steel connection to the stud wall or the other Newell. Compared with what my engineer has designed for me, the two Newell...

Yes, to fit the newel post you really need access to the floor structure underneath and it bolting to a joist. otherwise it'll be loose in no time. If you're doing it 'right' then I'd want it packing and bolting to two joists if possible.

Or trying to replace a tap that was fitted to the sink which was fitted to the work bench which was fitted after the cabinets and before the upstand, so there's no access to anything and the pipes are too close to get a pipe cutter on them. So a new tap means grinding the existing copper...

I'm having 25 x 37 battens on the wall, 100mm of insulation over that then boards on top. There's 15mm of existing render that can be chased and scope to chase the brickwork too, so more than enough depth to accommodate a 110mm pipe. I appreciate that there's a stand-off at the moment, but...

Might be a daft question, but I'll ask it anyway as Google isn't really coming up with anything. I have the soil stack on the end of my house, later this year we'll be going up another story, adding a new bathroom above and adding external insulation so that the existing solid-brick...

Between the rear extension and the side extension you have a square of building that is neither rear or side extension. My understanding is that that isn't Permitted Development and building one or the other first doesn't gain PD rights for the larger build to then enclose that space. But in...

It just takes longer to heat up and cool down really, the wood is an insulator, but the heat has to go somewhere. It will be a bit less efficient because the more heat is retained away from the room, the more will leak sideways, but the sideways area is fairly small with minimal cold-bridging...

Yeah, that location would be an option, but I want that space behind to store a couple of mattresses so what will be an upstairs living are can quickly be turned into a guest room, so would prefer not to go that route. The space is about twice the size as yours and that location is too close...

That's a valid point, given the existing house is uninsulated cavity dating back to 1906 and the new roof will be insulated to modern standards, there is a risk that heating the two floors below to the required temp means too much heat to leak into the ceiling, where it is then trapped. But I...

Because the space needs two radiators and there's only one place to put a radiator that isn't likely to be in the way of *something* when the room is furnished. With it being a loft space, it has under-eaves storage on two sides, stairs on the other, a dormer. So there's not enough flexibility...

I'm about tot start building the new floor in a loft conversion that I'm working through this year. I'm looking at options for UFH at the moment as I don't want to buy/fit anything that causes problems if I go that route wit the heating. I've tried my best Google skills, but it's a bit of a...

Hello thanks, looks like you're right, that's consistent with what's in the instructions. I don't think the 2 wire ones can be bought anymore, so I've bought an expander to add more zones and will move the door contacts onto that when it arrives. A quick overview of how to write these in...

The sensors are compatible with the 2-Wire Smoke Zone on the panel and the instructions show how it should be wired up to this detector, so as far as I can tell this should be a perfectly normal way of wiring the smoke detectors? I don’t have a spare zone on the panel and the wiring to the...

I’m wiring a Texecom Premier Elite 48 at the moment. I have 10 Texecom Exodus 4W smoke detectors that I am setting up to use the 2-wire Smoke dedicated smoke connection on the panel. I’ve struggled matching up the instructions supplied with the Smokes with the instructions supplied with the...