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Having forgot about this for a month, I contacted Sentinel, if anyone is interested: "We are inclined to think (and it certainly looks like that on the images) that this is a case of bacterial/microbiological contaminant build up. After cleaning the header tank well, you can use our X700...

Yes, please PM me

Thanks both. Can I leave the white part be, and just sand down and paint the facia with Ronseal 10 year wood paint? Hadn't thought about scaffolding - but since I don't know anyone and am in London, is is worth the £300 odd(?) over the £100 to hire a tower? Shame to hear towers are not as good...

I am preparing to hire a scaffold tower to paint my upstairs wooden window frames. While I'm at it, I figured it would be a good idea to clean the gutters and whatever else needs doing. I noticed this flaky black paint - touching it, it's wood. The white part looks fine, but the black is all...

Do you have a source for this? I am seeing 60 degrees is necessary. I know it probably won't make a massive difference, as we've had it set to 55 degrees for years with no problems, but I would like to get it optimal now that I have cleared all the crap out the way to access the thermostat.

What do you all make of this study? https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2094925/ -> "Electric water heaters already installed should be set at 60°C to limit the risk of Legionella contamination."

Is 55 degrees sufficient to stop legionella? I have seen various numbers, but most commonly 60-65

Measure at the taps or in the cylinder somehow?

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Should I change it from 55 to 60? I set out to reduce it! Does it feel too hot at the taps because the run of pipe from cylinder to taps is short?

I have thought about getting this done, but am not sure about the numbers, as I have heard HW is a small proportion of the heating bill. Would most plumbers be able to wire up the electric control box (we have one from the previous owner but it isn't connected to anything!) And any ideas on how...

I just checked out the right thermostat this time, and was shocked to see it was set to 55 degrees. Is it normal for the HW to be set to 55 degrees, yet when I run the hot tap to the hottest I can't comfortably wash my hands in it? (For the bathroom tap which has no mixer).

Apparently the previous owner never got round to setting up the electronic controls to respond to the hot water

Ah, right! In my house, the boiler is wired only to respond to the house thermostat (and heats the hot water up whenever the house happens to need heating). So when the central heating is off, the hot water is immersion-only. So the hot water thermostat will be at the top of the cylinder...

Several years ago, a plumber set my hot water temperature to be very high to stop the (small) cylinder from running out of water. I now want to reduce the temperature to save on bills. It is electric immersion only. I located the thermostat under the jacket. I used a screwdriver to move the...

which biocide, and from where?

Last autumn, I cleaned out the central heating system (old back boiler with F&E) with X400, and dosed with X100. It hadn't been touched for a good few years prior to that. A few months later, I find this gunge in the tank (stringy/white stuff) which Google tells me is probably bacterial and...

On the right - actual window is pvc, but outer frame and sill is wood (this is unusual, right?)

The bathroom is half-tiled, half-wallpapered. However, it's been maybe 30 years, and the wallpaper is in bad shape. I would like to sort it out myself. I think painting would be easier than papering or tiling. However, I'm not sure exactly what I need to do to get it into a paintable state. As...

Upstairs window frames really need painting. Will require sanding and putting on a few coats. I haven't painted upstairs windows before (DIYer) and get the impression hiring a scaffold tower is the best way to go. However, I can see two problems: 1) How do those with semi-detached/terraced...