Immersion heater thermostat unresponsive

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Several years ago, a plumber set my hot water temperature to be very high to stop the (small) cylinder from running out of water. I now want to reduce the temperature to save on bills. It is electric immersion only. I located the thermostat under the jacket. I used a screwdriver to move the arrow from just over 80 degrees to 60 degrees. However, a few days later, the water is still very hot at the taps, so I don't think it has had any effect. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
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Clearly turn off power first, but will find the thermostat under cover.
Ah, right! In my house, the boiler is wired only to respond to the house thermostat (and heats the hot water up whenever the house happens to need heating). So when the central heating is off, the hot water is immersion-only.

So the hot water thermostat will be at the top of the cylinder somewhere? Is it hard to get to? (There is a lot of clutter around there, but I'll have a look).
And the thermostat I found here is the circulating temperature of the hot water in the heating system? Is a little over 80 degrees maximally efficient for this? And the settings on my (old, back) boiler correspond to the setting for the boiler, which affects how long it takes the CH to reach the 80 degrees, and the main house thermostat controls when the whole thing is needed? Just trying to understand how it all fits together, with there being (at least!) 3 different thermostats in the system. Thanks again
 
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Electricity is far more expensive than gas or oil.
Use the boiler to heat the cylinder.
Op states it operates with the heating, so either old gravity circs or knackered valves (as I’m sure you know).
 
Op states it operates with the heating, so either old gravity circs or knackered valves (as I’m sure you know).
Apparently the previous owner never got round to setting up the electronic controls to respond to the hot water
 
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I just checked out the right thermostat this time, and was shocked to see it was set to 55 degrees. Is it normal for the HW to be set to 55 degrees, yet when I run the hot tap to the hottest I can't comfortably wash my hands in it? (For the bathroom tap which has no mixer).
 
It would be worth you doing then, as @flameport says, electricity is more expensive than gas.
I have thought about getting this done, but am not sure about the numbers, as I have heard HW is a small proportion of the heating bill. Would most plumbers be able to wire up the electric control box (we have one from the previous owner but it isn't connected to anything!) And any ideas on how much it would save a year, roughly?
 
I just checked out the right thermostat this time, and was shocked to see it was set to 55 degrees. Is it normal for the HW to be set to 55 degrees, yet when I run the hot tap to the hottest I can't comfortably wash my hands in it? (For the bathroom tap which has no mixer).
Usually 60 degrees to kill off legionella bacteria. I would use a thermometer to test temperature.
 
I have thought about getting this done, but am not sure about the numbers, as I have heard HW is a small proportion of the heating bill. Would most plumbers be able to wire up the electric control box (we have one from the previous owner but it isn't connected to anything!) And any ideas on how much it would save a year, roughly?
Yes, a decent plumber should be able to do this, or an electrician competent in heating wiring. Not sure on the savings, but imagine quite a lot. The immersion is 3kw, similar to a lot of kettles.
 
I do wonder, would like a time switch on immersion heated so it can be timed to finish off water heating, as I have no tank thermostat.

On my to do list.

As to if oil or electric cost, no longer sure, the oil heats up the pipe work, so more losses, I use just time to control, 4 x 1/2 hour a week.
 
Should I change it from 55 to 60? I set out to reduce it! Does it feel too hot at the taps because the run of pipe from cylinder to taps is short?
 

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