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Sorry, I meant "If I go for option 1, do I need a condensation trap". Alan

I need to work out where to put the extractor fan for my bathroom. There is no space on the outside wall so it has to go in the ceiling. The shower will be in one corner and I would have thought the best place would be over the shower, but if the vent goes straight up it is well nigh impossible...

Yes, I did see your original post on this, but I had rather hastily already bought an RCBO in readiness to install it in the bathroom before I thought of asking about it here. I'm glad I did ask because this has been an interesting discussion which has given me a lot of food for thought...

Just to be clear: I'm not fitting an electric shower. I have hot and cold feeds to the bathroom and a very efficient new combi boiler so an electric shower was not required. I'm not against the idea of having the CU renewed. I would like the house to conform to modern specifications as much as...

Lots of useful information here! Just to clarify everything I've said: there are no RCDs at present, just MCBs. I think the house was rewired in the 90s but it was a professional job so I saw no reason to change anything. I'm putting a main LED light and an 8w extractor fan in the bathroom plus...

All the circuits in my house are currently protected by MCBs in the CU. I thought an RCBO specifically for the bathroom would give extra protection in a watery environment. As for the cost, my bathroom renovation has already gone 150% over budget and I haven't started on the rest of the house...

Those are fair points, thanks. I was thinking only about protecting what's inside the bathroom rather than the whole circuit back to the CU. The main reason for thinking about doing it this way is that I assumed it would be a lot cheaper to pick up an off-the-shelf RCBO for £12 (doesn't need to...

Does an RCBO have to be mounted in the CU or can it go in-line somewhere, for example in a control box nearer to the circuits it's protecting? Don't worry - I'm not planning to mess around with the CU myself but I'm at the planning stage for my bathroom and was intending to put a control box...

It should work like this: Switch it on. It stays on. Some time later switch it off. It then keeps running for the timeout period. flameport has now posted a perfect explanation of why it's not staying on in the second phase of the above. Alan

Ah, that sounds logical, many thanks. It makes perfect sense now that you've said it - it already has a live connection so it only needs to be switched. Alan

Yes, it is set to the minimum which is a minute. But that's not the problem. The timer works correctly, which is to run on after it's switched off. But it's switching off immediately without being touched, so I can only ever run the fan for a minute at a time. As I said, it works correctly with...

I have an Envirovent extractor fan with run-on timer, i.e. it has neutral, switched live and an extra unswitched live to power the run-on. I want to use it with a touch switch but it doesn't work. It will switch on OK but automatically switches off after a couple of seconds. The run-on works as...

Sorry if I was unclear. I thought that "into a stack junction" would make it clear enough that there is already a junction into the stack so no drilling required. I want to replace an old lead bath outlet with 40mm plastic. Currently it's sealed into a 4" junction to the stack (presumably with...

Will a 40-110mm boss fit snugly into an old cast iron soil stack junction (presumably 4")? If it's too small that shouldn't be a problem as I can seal it, but if it's too big I'd rather not find out after I've dismantled the existing waste system. Alan

This was what the MIs said to use, with a mortar bed on top. You suggested earlier in the thread that I should tank the area anyway so I was going to look at that. Alan

I'm trying to make it as easy as possible for anyone who follows me! This is what I've done so far. Do you think I need dwangs between these support pillars? The brackets are very rigid. The base will be 18mm P5 grade chipboard. I could only find it in 600mm width and the shower is 700mm so...

That's good to hear! The trap was supplied with the base and it is one of the McAlpine types. I'm putting it on a plinth with a removable side panel and the trap will be very close to that side so maintenance should be very easy. Alan

Unfortunately in this case it hasn't been smoothed, and much of it is so knobbly that if I sand it down I would have to take quite a lot of material off. I'll use silicone as you suggest, thanks. Alan

I have a stone resin shower tray, the underside of which is rough, uneven and knobbly (as I imagine most are). Obviously screwing up the lower portion of the trap is not going to make a watertight seal so I'm guessing that I will have to apply some kind of waterproof sealant and then sand it...

The combi was more or less a drop-in replacement for the old boiler. The only work they needed to do on the existing piping was to remove the cylinder, cut the pipes to the loft, and add a bypass loop across the pipes that would have heated the cylinder. Unfortunately they left this bypass above...