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Thanks, I thought that might be possible - I knew real wood wasn't suitable for direct fixing due to expansion but figured the pre-fab panels might be ok (have even got a hot glue gun too). Still not sure how the panel would sit/be finished against the rounded edge of the architrave though...

I'd like to put some tongue & groove wood on my hallway walls - I've done this in another room by first fixing stripwood to the walls, then pinning the planks to the stripwood. However, the thinnest I can get using this option is about 14mm (stripwood/planks being 7mm each) - the current...

Thanks kidgreen, there was also a valve on the top of the pump that had been closed (by a previous owner) we didn't realise til afterwards. Would this have knackered the pump? Bit peeved off, it's going to be at least a couple of hundred to replace the pump and it was running perfectly until the...

I'm not sure any of it was isolated. The backup guy has said the pump is knackered...but it was working fine before. Is it likely the airlock knackered it?

Plumber, but he's still relatively new to boilers so isn't sure. He's drafting in back up Tuesday. The fact it only happened after new rad install, there wasn't anything substantial in the filter, and the pump + fan seem to be working still points towards airlock?

We had all panels off today (including the burner faceplate) - bleed valve on the pump was closed, opened it and managed to get the boiler firing on and off in 30 second intervals (wasn't protection cut off, was more like the thermostat thought it was getting up to temp, so was continually...

Mornin' DP - not sure, I think the fan was coming on but not sure about vent, how is that checked? Ruled out the exchanger being blocked (had it off and it's not blocked).

Thanks Nozzle, not sure about suction/discharge valves. It does seem like the pump was trying to work against the blockage but the protection's cutting it off after a few seconds. Even after burner has gone out, there's a quiet hum/vibration off the pump, suggesting it's still running? It's got...

Yeah Jacktom, that's it - happens about 10 seconds in, starting from cold though. I've heard less severe kettling on my last boiler but not the 'clacking' this seems to be doing. Just tried leaving filling loop running with drain pipe open but it doesn't seem to have helped. It's an Ariston...

Had a couple of new rads installed yesterday and this morning the boiler cut out after some crazy noises. Thought it would just be air in the system and duly bled it but the boiler keeps cutting out (it fires for a few seconds, pressure gauge shoots up, then it cuts off). Plumber said he...

Owain - to explain, this cat's a beast (8kg...most are 4kg!) and the flap is going to be tight as it is. It wouldn't work at 14", trust me :D There's a timber panel in just now but we want glass as the hall's pretty low on light. God - I suppose, just don't want to pay through the nose for it...

I'm looking to get a toughened double glazed unit made to replace a timber panel that's currently on the bottom half of my front door. I've approached a couple of local glaziers and they're telling me, due to the toughening, the flap needs to be 6" from the bottom of the glass. The door frame...

Thanks Woody - it's more a case of what's quickest and easiest, as I'll possibly leave the window uncovered until such time as the garage is in motion. Good to know re. fireproof, as I can slap on fire rated cementitious board if going that route.

I've got a window that's currently external (in a bathroom) - I plan to build a garage on the side of the house next year which will cover the window. I'm guessing normally the window would need removing, breeze blocked and rendered but as the window will essentially be internal eventually, can...

I've got a warmup kit - although it's electric, my question's more relating to the backer board. I misunderstood the initial instructions and have bought 2 lots of board: 1 layer of plain 6mm insulation board and a 2nd lot of 6mm insulated cement board. I take it I would still benefit from...

Thanks daze - is the ply required for stability or for the secret screws to hold? If I have to ply it may not be worthwhile, I'm at the mercy of expansion, glue not holding, not to mention sanding & varnishing after. Seems a shame to toss 50sqm though :(

I had to lift our engineered flooring and unfortunately most of the short/tip edge tongues came away in the process - however, the long edges remain. It's a floating floor over chipboard. Will it be possible to re-lay (maybe 'secret' screw or any other way) or will this be a mess? I've got 2...

Thanks for the reply Ree - doing some further reading in the meantime, I've gathered backer is recommended where at all possible, so I'm going with that (along with standard practice of adhesive & screws).

I've to tile an area that has altro vinyl over a chipboard subfloor. I had initially intended to tile straight onto the altro as it's a relatively clean, uniform surface but was advised by one person to remove the altro, in case it 'came up'. Well, I had to remove a 600x300mm section in a...

Thanks Joe - there are some little vents visible externally, but there's been cavity wall insulation done since, so I'm not sure if that's since blocked them. Out of interest, can you just drill a few holes in the brickwork (at the airgap level) to create ventilation?