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  1. J

    Marking out tiles for a lead valley

    Thanks, I thought it was some mysterious technique known only to roofers.
  2. J

    Marking out tiles for a lead valley

    I can't find anything specific on how to set out tiles prior to cutting them for the valley. I have seen a comment that tiles are set two tiles away from the valley and a string line used to mark them for cutting. Do you fit the only tiles either side of the valley and mark them with a string...
  3. J

    Clay double Roman shallow pitch headlap

    Building a single storey extension using existing and reclaimed clay Double Roman tiles. A canopy goes over the main door. it is about 1500mm deep and 3000mm wide. It as a shallow pitch of 17 degrees what headlap is recommended? The main roof is trussed and has 30 degree pitch and the canopy...
  4. J

    Insulating a ground floor room

    I am thinking about insulating a study about nine feet square. My 91 year old Father struggles to get up stairs so I am thinking of converting the study to use a bedroom. His current bedroom is above the kitchen which has an AGA, so quite warm. The study floor is concrete and had a carpet, the...
  5. J

    Trusses, treated or not?

    Building project includes 30 trusses 5m span Fink or Queen post. It is my property. I live 12 miles north of Bristol and am not sure whether to get the trusses treated. The Longhorn beetle is the threat to softwoods, the beetle is in and around the Thames valley area, and it may spread due to...
  6. J

    Mixing and storing Lime Putty mortar

    Post edited. Putty has not been used before. My info suggests that 2:1 is better than 3:1. http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/mythmix/mythmix.htm
  7. J

    Mixing and storing Lime Putty mortar

    I have two walls to point on both sides and then to render the one westerly external wall with Lime render The walls are stone and Lime mortar, the westerly facing and gets the worst of the weather, rain and wind, it is also the one with the largest holes in the mortar. I have a 25kg tub of...
  8. J

    Drill driver

    Your comments are interesting to read. The batteries losing their charge capacity per year. Some manufacturers are offering three year guarantees on batteries but it is not common. I am aware that once you commit to one manufacturer then you tend to stick with it and expand to suit the batteries...
  9. J

    Acrow on a sloping floor

    A concrete lintel (which was cast on site) over a doorway is supported on one end by a stone wall which has to be removed for some building work. The lnitel is seven inches high by four inches wide with a wooden beam parallel with it. The floor is tile-18mm chipboard-50mm Celotex-concrete slab...
  10. J

    Drill driver

    Thanks for that. I had a close look at the options. I still struggle to get a good deal on these. As the overall cost is £130 upwards, and then I am thinking why not buy one with metal gears and a decent chuck for £180? Each drill requires a charger and one or two batteries, which are fixed...
  11. J

    Drill driver

    The construction is single storey blockwork cavity walls, trussed roof (30 trusses, 5 metre span), so the straps and screws for that, not sure what size they are. To fit door frames, hang doors, fit locks and furniture, electrical fittings, plasterboard screws, three external doors, one set of...
  12. J

    Drill driver

    Got a small project of 40 metres sq to do , but am not sure whether I can do it with a cheap 18V such as Bosch at Screwfix for £90 or a 10.8V Metabo for £130 or a proper 18V Metabo for £189. The 10.8v drivers are handy and light but lack the power of an 18V one, i.e. 30NM compared with 100NM...
  13. J

    Makita SDS drill

    Thanks for your comments. I went into a hire shop to get a more powerful breaker and asked them. their opinion was that the drill has an overload cutout when it is hot. Seems to be ok now.
  14. J

    Makita SDS drill

    Makita 2450 which is ten years old but not had much use until the last two weeks. I have been using it on hammer only with a chisel to break through cement on stone walls to break down the walls and to store the stone, the walls are typically cement pointed on top of Lime mortar, so no...
  15. J

    Refelt or not

    A building in a l shape. I have an extension/conversion of one leg (two outbuildings). On the roof of the other leg of the building the felt is coming away in places, mainly shearing by a rafter and then falling down. The roof does not leak here. I have to remove some of this to fit the new...
  16. J

    Diverter valve?

    Oh well. Talk to myself. Got hairs on the palm of my hand as well... Checked the record of the last time I changed it in 2009 and it does not close fully. To test, a pair of pliers around the pin on the top of the valve with the actuator off and the valve will move upwards about 1/4", so not...
  17. J

    S/H French Doors in extension?

    The extension has not been started, so thanks for the update on the regs, BC said nothing about that though. I passed on the doors, be a pain to store them until I need them.
  18. J

    Diverter valve?

    WB 12/14 Heatslave Combi Turned it on this morning for hot water for a shower and the rads heated up and the hot water took longer than usual to heat up. Think this is the diverter valve which I replaced some 5 years ago and I still have the old one. What is the remedy, to replace or will a...
  19. J

    S/H French Doors in extension?

    u value of 1.6 is required via DG units minimum air gap of 16mm. So I need to check the thickness of the existing glazing air gap, 6mm or 12mm or thicker. So any new units maybe thicker and may not fit into the existing rebate. assuming BC check this.
  20. J

    S/H French Doors in extension?

    I have been offered a pair of double glazed UPVC wood stain external French Doors for an extension for which I have planning permission. Not sure of age, 10-15 years? Not sure if they satisfy current regs. How can I check to see if they do? Seals and glazing thickness are the factors at a guess.
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