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Purely if its possible to have a loft extension which captures the view - something with plenty of glass and no dormer or velux windows.

Well everyone has to start somewhere and this was my first enquiry.

Full regs are likely to apply anyway as I live in an AONB and if I can capture the view, it'll be worth the cost.

Well perhaps they should! A view is always better from a height and dormer or velux windows are designed to let light in, not to look out. Neither enhance the building. With a gable roof from ridge height, why not floor to ceiling glass? If there's space, make it a sliding door exiting onto...

I have a bungalow with enough roof height for a loft conversion, which would have a truly great view. But why is it that I cannot find any information whatsoever about having a conversatory in my loft? Is it totally out of the question?

The area of land would be a bit more than a quarter of an acre. The size of the house would be up to the developer.

I'd be interested to know what you think my chances are of selling part of my garden to a builder. The piece of land I'd sell used to have a building - the ruins are still there and the building is shown on maps in the record office. However, the plot is in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty...

Hmmm. Maybe it depends where you live but my local B&Q is great with some great people working there. Where I live jobs are badly paid and hard to get, so perhaps we get brighter people working for less here!

If you're worried, extract the current borders and paint with some anti-fungal, anti-mould thing. When fitting the new border, make sure to use anti-fungal, anti-mould adhesive and grout.

Rummaging around in the twilight zone we find the unbelievable truth that a tile spacer set flat against the back of a tile, and with enough adhesive, will match the depth of another tile perfickly! :shock: :shock: Having tried my leetle experiment, I've saved a smacking £15 PER SQUARE...

Thanks, I appreciate your replies. I also wondered about sticking a tile spacer side-ways on, behind the thiner tiles. That has the advantage of being able to press them hard against the wall.

The tiles are for a kitchen, but I'll be using anti-fungal adhesive and grout. I did a trial version but now realise I was given the wrong white tile to use!! I follow what you say about the cut edges and don't mind the glass tiles being slightly raised, but not significantly. I'm hoping to get...

To keep costs down we've bought plain white 150 square tiles and plan to use mainly these, but in every quarter sq mtre the plain white tile will be cut in three strips, the centre strip will be replaced by 3 x 50x50 glass tiles. Problem is the glass tiles are a fair bit deeper than the plain...

I'll get other quotes, but that's what I've been quoted before charges for cutting etc. Maybe there's a monopoly here - not mainland UK. Thanks for your help.

Extractor fans, extract steam. What wear and tear and hard knocks? It'll be on the walls and have less hard knocks than wallpaper. Tiles make good, old-fashioned splashbacks......but that's what they are, old-fashioned. I need more light in this kitchen than I can get through the window. Glass...

Thanks - a man of many words (at least more than foxy!). So given a choice of glass or perspex - glass behind the hob and perspex elsewhere?

Thanks for the swift reply? Any chance of an explanation? A thicker, safety glass would be used behind the hob, but I can't see why this glass couldn't do the rest.

I'm considering glass splashbacks in our kitchen. Biggest problem is the cost! BUT - the old secondary double glazing is still hanging around somewhere and I wonder if I could take that glass to someone to cut to size and finish the edges. Would it be suitable?

Thanks - think I'll give a bit of wall a try and see what happens.

The house was built sometime in the 1980's. I'm not sure if the tiles are original - I doubt it. They're not very thick - no thicker than modern ones. Can I sand any remaining adhesive off with an electric sander?