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Had to look up what 'reveal' is :oops: So, to clarify, I'm not talking about the reveal - I'm talking about a small gap between two entirely separate sash windows. I've read elsewhere though the D&D is not recommended for outside facing brick walls, so thinking I should maybe just get a...

Do you mean good enough to not have cornicing? Presumably if you do have cornicing, it wouldn't matter?

Have removed plaster from an inside wall, and well rather like the exposed brick look. If possible I'd like to avoid the 'it was never meant to be exposed'/'it looks hideous' flame war :) My only questions are how to treat it? The bricks themselves are good enough, but looks like it needs...

Have taken off plaster on outside wall, down to brick. Am going to plasterboard (dot and daub), and have a pro come in and skim. Not sure however what to do about a very narrow but tall area between wo sash windows, I'd say 5cm x 100cm. Do I dot and daub that tiny area as well?

I've ripped off all the old lath'n'plaster from the walls and ceiling, and now have bare ceiling joists/wall studs, and one brick wall. That's the whole messy bit done and dusted. Question is, which do I start first? The walls, or the ceiling? I can't see a reason why the ordering would...

I'm going to fit an ensuite, 1m deep by 2.4m wide, usual layout, sink in front of door, toilet and shower to either side. Shower will be 1m x 0.8m. I was initially thinking wetroom style, but given the restriced space, it would still need a shower door/screen. I therefore thuoght I'd prefer a...

Hi there The best place for a loft hatch is in the corner of a bedroom, and I'd thus like it as inconspicuous as possible. I'd therefore like to not announce its presence with architrave and such; is there a way to do this? I am re-plasterboarding and skimming the ceiling anyway, so...

I've given up and instructed a local structural engineer - £450 + VAT for site visit, measuring up, report + designs

Couple of photos: 1) Bit blury, but photo looking up at the top of the stud wall: 2) Photo of the chimney and pillar supporting the beam: 3) Photo of the beam where the door frame was taken out: As you can see in that one, the beam that the joists rest on is quite narrow...

Is there any particular reason you don't want to remove the stack? IMO this is by far the easiest and safest method - nothing to support that way. It does of course depends on the aesthetic value of the chimney stack. EDIT - Ignore me, I just re-read, and you like the chimney stack...

Even though, as I say, the joists don't insert into, or rest on, the party wall? That means a span of at least 4 metres of a beam that's only 5cm wide supporting a dozen joists...

Just got home, and on close inspection, I can confirm that the joists on the party wall rest on a beam that is NOT attached to the party wall. That (fairly narrow) beam appears to rest on the chimney, then a sort of half-brick deep pillar poking out of the party wall, and then finally the...

Thanks - part of my concern is that it might also be helping with the rigidity of the building, not just load bearing. Also, while the joists rest on the outside wall, that only rest on a single long beam that is somehow attached to the party wall.

Hi there I am having a new gas and water main come into the property, as well as extending the tails from the meter, with SWA, all along the same route. What is the minimum safe distance between them, horizontally, and vertically?