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But for a standard hob do you really consider that nessecary?

Surely that's an overkill by the manufacturer? Most people would just refit with twin and earth!

So we're going to stick to the original plan for your 4mm for both oven and job?

So I'm good buying 4 meters of your original email link? Manual for hob says 4-6mm For oven says 1.5-2.5mm I'll buy from the link you sent me and fix both appliances to same socket?

last question. manual says h05ss-f (180degree c) cable required (for hob) can i use 4mm flex (from the link) ok as it was the one i was going to buy for the oven flex...

Will probably buy the wire from your link to be safe. Not fitting till next week so can buy a few meters online. Really appreciate the advice.

That's brilliant just as I thought cheers for the response. Didn't think FCu is an option, will just wore both hob and oven into same old connection (which is on sufficient cooker circuit rating) Just so I'm clear the 4mm2 wire, does that have to be of a particular rating and Can I get from...

I have searched through a few threads but just wanted clarification I have brought A SamsungPKG100 single oven with maximum output rating of 3400W and C61R2AEE hob which has 2 burners with an output of 1.8kW and 2 burners with an output of 1.2kW. Currently replacing kitchen with...

Thanks, Final question, are these flex connectors ok to use. I have heard they can block easily and as I'm boxing in the cistern and pipe it will be hard to access in the future Cheers

So just so I'm clear, The finned type fit inside another standard soil pipe And my linked one fits into my soil stack with o ring? Probably use that then Can a pan connector be increased in length or is it strictly just for going on the spigot of a wc pan ( can I put a straight extension...

Installing a new toilet that is about 2-3" forward of the one previously My question is with regards to the waste connection. There's is a small run to the soil stack which is the push fit type with ring seal in. Will this flexible connector fit...

I do have the skirting boards but was thinking having a small border out of porcelian so can do either way really. Obviously the skirting will cover the cut edges I suppose. The dry cutter I have is a plasplugs protiler, not the greatest so not sure I wil be able to cut the with that, will...

Yeah ground floor, there's a very tiny amount of movement but I'm going to add the hardibacker and hope it gives a better base Also, I really want some porcelian tiles that I have seen but worried they are going to be hard to cut. I do have a wet cutter and gonna buy a new wheel for it. I...

Ok so I brought some 6mm hardibacker from topps tiles as a better base for my chipboard floor The problem is I can't find any nails at all for the chipboard so don't know where to screw int joists to strengthen the boards. They are fairly stable so was going to add a layer of adhesive then...

Thanks, I'll try to get some photos up next week when it's (hopefully) all done!

More like realist, Unfortunately time and money are against me so I got some time tommorrow to make it happen hopefully to a half decent outcome, I have to box in that ugly waste and water pipes anyway so it doesn't really matter what it looks like

Thanks for all the good advice. Admittedly whatever I do it's gonna look crap but then it dosent really matter as it's all getting boxed in. I've traced the pipes and they go behind and horizontal along the plasterboard wall so my final plan is to chase it back and then attempt to bend it...

Yeah, aware the towel rad won't be too hot but it's only for a small cloakroom that always has its door closed so just for looks really. Can't get floorboards up as its crappy chipboard that runs under walls, howevere I have got a bit of slack from the Microbore that runs along the wall into...

I'm not very experienced with this 8mm stuff. Is it a case of carefully bending by hand ? It seems pretty flexible. I should of said the new towel rad is half the width of the old rad so also need the adjustment there

Been playing about with some ideas... How about using a reducer straight into a 15mm street elbow? This would probably just be ok and then can continue with normal elbows until I get to the position I need Anyone had much experience with these street elbows?