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I spent the entire day fitting one onto 22mm ply sitting on timber joists sitting on concrete. I just can't figure out how I could have done this any better.. Here's what I did : 1) Once the ply was screwed, I placed the tray onto some cement which I screedy roughly onto the ply and...

Basically it was my 2nd time using self levelling compound and the floor came out 90% flat, however there is a high spot in one area (almost a ridge) and a low section in another. Luckily they are near the threshold areas, so I'm going to peel back and address the issue rather than leave the...

Wish I'd read this before doing it. Basically I took the peel off the back of the thing and stuck it down to the underlay but realized this wouldn't work out so I glued it to the underlay with gripfill. It's actually holding solid but I doubt it'll hold long term. I won't redo as not got the...

Hi, I bought one of these http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/201521 and my floor is 8mm laminate timber sitting on 5mm underlay sitting on a concrete floor. My question is how do I fit this? It has a peel off sticker at the back but if I stick this to the underlay it will get hairy and I doubt it...

This is where a bit of experimentation comes in. I should mention it's a going that protrudes outwards in an L shape. In other words it is not wall to wall, so the corner will need to be molded sufficiently also. This is why the moldings which are available could be difficult to make good as...

Not sure which I have but it's WBP I know that much

How about if sanded and sealed, and repeated? Just bought a 4 piece half round kit :/

http://www.scosarg.com/cmt-954-bull-nose-bit-tct-s-12-d-22-2x19.html?gclid=CJO3rcmhob0CFYMSwwodL4UA-A This is the sort of thing but can't seem to find these in any of the big stores, any particular reason?

Hi guys, I've got a cheap router I've used a few times and I'm intending to make a step out of 22mm ply and want to run a bullnose down it. What router piece do I buy as want to make sure I buy the right one?

Flat wood bits only go up to 32mm by the looks of it

I'm having to drill through stud as alternative is drilling twice as much through concrete which I don't want to do. I have a holesaw kit but the depth of the cut only goes as deep as the depth of the cup and I need to drill 4-5 times the depth. One option is to drill, notch out a bit of...

Just unscrewed the tails and noticed fragments of concrete blocking the pipe, cleared the opening and now the flows much more reasonable. I'd like to get the aerator off but struggling as electricians working in that area. Worried now the pipe might have concrete inside it, I didn't see any...

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Taps%20&%20Showers/Kitchen%20Taps%20&%20Mixers/Barra%20Sink%20Mixer/d240/sd3100/p82060 Does this have one? Looks like it might but can't apply pressure to it with a wrench without scratching off all the polish

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Why is this happening to me? Everything today has been a hassle, twisting and turning those ****ing push fits until I've got arthritis... anyway this is simple I've got a sink upstairs with a cold tap, mains fed, loads of pressure... tap downstairs in flat annex, mains fed, water just ****ing...

Ok well I decided just to try and make the most of the corner post and just about got away with fixing to the wall without cutting down the backs of the units, although had to pack out behind the l shape brackets, I'll upload some pics at some point

Guys only just not have gotten around to fitting this and the rest of the kitchen. I'm finding the corner walls are not square and not sure how to fit them