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I think I will go with this one: https://www.bigbathroomshop.co.uk/milano-aruba-ayre-aluminium-white-vertical-designer-radiator-1800mm-x-470mm-double-panel-61414 I'm attracted to the weight (or lack of it) as it's on a partition wall, the hole centers are listed as 560mm, exactly what I need...

Right, definitely a factor here, best way to stop that happening is to not have a towel rad methinks. :sneaky:

Closest I came with with was this one: https://www.bigbathroomshop.co.uk/milano-aruba-white-vertical-designer-radiator-1780mm-x-472mm-double-panel-22797 Unfortunately it gives the BTU at Delta T, so I can't really compare with the one I've got (which just gives a single BTU figure) It doesn't...

Our towel rad is ineffective at heating the kitchen, and there's no space to put another rad anywhere else. I was thinking of replacing it. Current rad is 3268 BTU, calculator says for the room it should be 4100, but there are three exits: French windows to patio, drafty garage door and an...

Yes, I found similar references as well, but I believe that advice is for screwed applications, whereas I'd be using the roof couplers (e.g. clamping). I didn't fancy wading through all the NASC literature to try to find some numbers for something so trivial. Since I'm only using single sheet...

I only said 'tin hat' cos that's the only place I've seen the couplers used. Doesn't mean I'm making one. Calm down Woody :rolleyes:

If I have 8ft corrugated metal sheets and I want to clamp them, what spacing should the purlins be? I know 0.7mm corrugated sheet should normally be supported with 1.2m spaced purlins but I was wondering if I can have wider spacing as some pictures I've seen of 'tin hats' seem to have them...

I wouldn't use ethernet for very low speed data like light switches, it seems overkill. You've plenty of other standards that may be more appropriate and use fewer wires: RS485, 1-wire, CANBUS etc... If you used for instance 1-wire DS2408, you could poll each addressable light switch every...

I just realised which £200 one you were probably talking about: the Weller 6966E. The one I used in the past was remarkably similar to that, but not identical.

I was searching for "heat gun 300w" and all I got was the similar pen-like unit with blue/red plastic shroud and it doesn't look like it accepts any attachments anyhow. That was cheap, but not exactly what I wanted. Best I did was the Steinel Hot Air Gun HL Stick 350W (Amazon) which comes...

Are you sure the 300w ones have attachments? I know exactly what you mean (think they're all made in the same Chinese factory) but I've found no attachments for them. It's very odd. I used to use one in a past job that was small, pistol grip, and was only used for heat shrink. It did have a...

It seems Steinel is the gold standard when it comes to heat guns as they seem to have a huge range of accessories, however I'm looking for something cheaper as I'll be using it once in a blue moon and only for heat-shrink. Is there a cheap brand that: 1) Goes down to low temp, e.g. <100...

Greetings fellow DIYers, just wanted to share some details of a dashcam install. This is a slightly different approach to how you might have seen it done elsewhere, however this has worked well for me and I've done two cars like this. Step 1, Change the interior overhead light for LED. Normal...

I don't know what you mean about chalet bungalow, but I assume you've got a flat bit of ceiling that you don't want to go into? My doubled rafters went about a foot above the window and no problems so far. I only had a single rafter removed for each window, I put in two small windows instead...

My Velux recommended fitter didn't go that far. May depend on your window sizes though?

I used one of the BG light switches and a 12W LED bulkhead from toolstation. The switch has an indicator: You can wire it in a so-called 'locator' mode. Where the indicator goes on when the light's off. It achieves this with neon wired across the connection, and it conducts just enough...

I have a router, a circular saw and a plunge saw.

Hi All, Can anyone tell me the best way to tongue and groove timber? I've about 50m to do so don't mind buying kit, just wondering what's the best technique? I want approx 10mm tongues/grooves. thanks! S.

Each to their own, but I don't think that would have suited me. The way I did it meant 6 independent problems to solve (get a tube in the ground in the right position at the right height x6 tubes. Couple of swivel couplers connected two short tubes at right angles to the vertical pole to prop...

Here is my flooring: No binder in the middle of that one yet. I used a router to raise the boards round the collars. They ended up fitting quite snugly. I had to use a half board in the middle of the lower floor because (as with many things on this project) I hadn't really thought out...