DIY Tongue and groove
- Thread starter shagster
- Start date
Sponsored Links
On a fixed router table - you'll be paying 4 figures for decent kit.
Or the old fashioned way using a router plane that veritas or lie neilsen make, also hundreds of pounds.
Which might suggest buying it ready made would be more sensible in terms of time and cost.
Blup
Or the old fashioned way using a router plane that veritas or lie neilsen make, also hundreds of pounds.
Which might suggest buying it ready made would be more sensible in terms of time and cost.
Blup
- Joined
- 25 Apr 2016
- Messages
- 2,395
- Reaction score
- 555
- Country
Firstly, what tools do have access to?
What thickness is the timber you wish to work?
What thickness is the timber you wish to work?
Sponsored Links
I have a router, a circular saw and a plunge saw.
D
Deleted member 174758
The groove bit is easy enough with a smaller router - just use a bearing guided grooving bit. The tongue requires a tongue set (often T&G sets capable of doing both cuts are sold) requires a lot more power, so a 1/2in router (1800+ watts) is required, It also generates a lot more waste/dust, so it will need an extractor of some sort fitting. Assuming decent lengths of timber (i.e. over a metre) both really require a router table fitted with a fence and a hold-down above the cutter (a Shaw guard or SUVA guard) to ensure that the height of tongue or groove on the edge remains consistent. You'll also need to rig-up some form of support mechanism (table, stand, etc) to support the material both at infeed and outfeed sides of the router table. The table, hold down and supports can all be home-made. This is not a task suitable for freehand routing. If your router is underpowered you may need to consider just grooving the materials and using a supplied loose tongue instead.
If your saw table is a decent one, and you have someone else with you, I would consider using this to cut both the tongue and the groove. It will probably take a number of passes to do the groove, by moving the fence out slightly after each cut, but it can be done.
However, as someone has already said, it would probably be much cheaper and easier to buy the boards already t &G'd.
However, as someone has already said, it would probably be much cheaper and easier to buy the boards already t &G'd.
- Joined
- 25 Apr 2016
- Messages
- 2,395
- Reaction score
- 555
- Country
and how thick is the timbers you wish to younger and grove?
you need a spindle moulder with a power feed.
a hand router is a possibility but you might be disappointed with the results.
D
Deleted member 174758
That will almost certainly fail because getting the cuts to line-up properly on multiple passes on a circular saw with very long stock is all but impossible to achieve in practice even in a trade shop - that's why they use spindle moulders and power feeds for the task and do the cuts in a single pass (and why even router cutter sales places sell sets which will cut either tongue or groove in a single pass)
D
Deleted member 174758
I'll do a lot "knife and fork work" if it's a one-off/I don't want to wait a week for the workshop to deliver/we are being pushed by the main contractor to finish stuff so that another trade can follow us, etc (delete as appropriate), but there's a world of difference between making up a quick and dirty 3ft long section for a repair and doing multiple accurate, identical pieces. Hence my comments
Last edited by a moderator:
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
Similar threads
