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I’m installing a concealed shower valve with an in-wall brass box. It has four connections: hot and cold inlets, and two outlets (for example a fixed head and a hand shower). Before I board and tile the wall, both outlet pipes will be connected and capped at the drop-ear wall plates (½”...

I’m installing a Mira shower tray and the waste trap has two outputs and one output is to be capped with a blanking cap that has a blanking washer. The other pipe that connects to the waste pipe only has a conical ring for the compression fitting but it doesn’t have the usual flat washer that...

Here is a closeup picture of it dismantled. It containers the main body with the collar then a blue washer then an O ring then another blue washer. It uses metal inserts too. Is this the polyfit system? They’ve used it a lot under my floor boards and I’m wondering is this as reliable as JG? I...

Under my floorboards I’ve got this type of pushfit system and some Tees and elbows but I need to remove the tee and just put the exist elbow as I don’t need the tee section. But it doesn’t seem to look like the standard JG speedfit type that you twist to lock and unlock and push the collar and...

Really but visually looking at it when I clamp it to the vertical soil pipe, that entry port where the rubber gasket goes looks dead straight lol. So wondering how does the pipe that goes into it then bend to create a fall? Or will the rubber tolerate this? Worried that flexing it to make the...

I’m connecting a 40mm shower waste into a vertical soil stack using a boss strap. The boss inlet will be side-entry (horizontal) into the stack and i have a rubber adaptor for the 40mm pipe to enter the boss inlet bit. The distance from the shower tray outlet to the boss strap connection is...

I bought the following boss strap from Toolstation and bought the rubber 40mm insert for it. But nowhere does it say if the strap is suitable plastic that will solvent weld or not. Because from what I remember only abs and certain plastics can be solvent welded. Therefore the bit that’s going to...

I have a soil stack as pictured. I no longer need that white 40mm pipe going into the stack. But i also need to trim back the pretending bits. So I’ve highlighted in green and red. The red one I can trim the bit sticking out but for the bottom one in green that currently already has a solvent...

I’m leaning towards this of just putting plywood on the existing joists. So the current chipboard sits 23mm above the joist level. What’s the lowest thickness ply I can go with

Like this pic below. I want to get this section closer to the wall in direction I’ve drawn arrow. Excuse my bad drawing. The pipe going down is inside a Cavity that I have no access to after it leaves the plasterboard below the floor boards but the venting bit going up i can move if needed

I have a 1700x800x25mm Mira Flight Safe stone resin tray that I need to install as low as possible for a wet room look. My initial plan was to cut out the chipboard floor where the tray will sit, then use 38x63mm CLS battens screwed to the joists slightly lower, followed by a 20mm plywood layer...

My 110mm soil pipe is currently situated in the corner of the bathroom. It was previously boxed up behind a stud wall. I’ve attached some pictures. One of the photo shows the 110mm coming from the left and entering the Tee to go down. And the other photo I show the gap between the wall and the...

I’ve removed porcelain tiles from my wood floor substrate. Was extremely difficult but chipped them all away bit by bit. I’m now left with lots of patches of notched trowel flexible adhesive. The adhesive is the flexible type and is soft it’s not the rock solid cement type. What’s the best way...

So could I dot and dab it with tile adhesive? I’ve removed all the old blobs but there are sections of the blocks that are not 100% plumb

You think the gyproc plasterboard adhesive for dot and dabbing will be ok? Specially if after it’s cured I put some mechanical fixings by the dot and dab areas too?

I have the qBoard backer boards. The instruction manual for it is here: https://www.myqboard.com/fileadmin/myqboard/2_Downloads/2_Verarbeitungshinweise/2_Englisch/Qboard_VH_basiq_WA_EN.pdf On page 5 it covers the uneven surfaces. So it looks like the recommend just putting but dabs of it and...

Whatever adhesive was used by the original builders is rock solid. It literally takes chunks of the block out to come out. But they’ve only dabbed big thick blobs everywhere like some are 50cm apart. There’s no pattern that I can see. What kind of adhesive did they use? It’s rock hard not sure...

On the current external side of my bathroom wall there is currently green plasterboard that was dot and dabbed. The thickness of the plasterboards look approximately 20mm. I’m ripping the plasterboards out from the blocks completely to replace it with 20mm xps backer boards. I’ve attached a...

I’m stripping out my bathroom currently. I believe that it currently has a form of tongue and groove chipboard with some sort of grey top layer so not sure what sort of floorboards it is. I’ve attached a closeup photo of the surface. Three questions: 1. All the floor boards have uniform join...

I need to screw 38x63mm CLS battens to the side of my joists to then lay plywood on it. I believe it’s recommended to also apply glue and screw it down. Wanted to know what kind of glue will work well with screwing the batten down?