Search results

after removing some plasterboard, I have traced what I assume is the bathroom equipotential bonding (via 4mm earth wire) from the copper water pipes to the earth terminal in the pull switch. The pull switch controls the light and the extractor fan in the bathroom. Im assuming that the earths of...

not sure if this goes under plastering or building... Have removed rotten ancient plasterboard from stud wall posts/battens that used to surround bath. Have moisture resistant gyproc plasterboard to replace it. All the replaced area will be tiled so want to avoid skimming the board. However...

have removed bath and bath shower mixer Want to remove 3/4 inch bath taps and plug the existing fibre washer/copper connector till I decide whether I can use the existing pipes or chop them. Has anyone ever used something like this...

Have removed rotten ancient plasterboard from stud wall posts/battens that used to surround bath. Have moisture resistant gyproc plasterboard to replace it. All the replaced area will be tiled so want to avoid skimming the board. However need to level the boards slightly so that new bath has...

yes. would use compression fittings. I just hate cutting off soldered joints that havent leaked for 20 years! I guessed that connecting a flexible connector to the bend in the pipe might be a bridge too far.....

Hi, I am installing a new bath. Problem is the existing 22mm copper pipe leading to the soldered on cold water connector is in a smooth bend. It is unlikely that I will be able to line up the new bath and mixertaps with the existing copper pipe tails.....I originally intended to cut the existing...

wall is plasterboard on battens (existing switch box screwed to batten). Would plastering over old switch box not hide the fact that there is a cable running down the wall to the old position?? The existing cable might reach the new position but Im assuming it might not.

I mean the reverse wall i.e. you walk out of the room where the existing switch is to reach the new position

I see, I was comparing this setup to wiring a FCU to a 2gang socket yes already in place, looks neat inside and works fine and was done prior to part P based on when we moved in. Hence my wish to leave well enough alone of legal.

Another query,, A light switch has to be moved from inside room to outside (ceiling pull switch not an option). New position is as if you pushed the existing switch and your hand carried thru to other (out)side. Sliding door is reason What is the correct procedure for doing this? Is...

So it is not regarded as spurring from a spur to join the 3A fused switch to the 45A cooker switch + 13A switched socket? Or does 'fused' aspect of the 3A fused switch get around this issue?'

Unlikely to change the CCU in the near future to fit 17th regulations but thanks for the suggestion. So am I to understand that the copper pipes can be bonded to each other and the earth terminal of the timed fan and thereby this includes all pipes as well as the light switch and light itself...

In the interest of not having to have any new electrical work done before retiling our kitchen, can someone give me an opinion on this setup 45A cooker switch with additional socket is fed by 6mm cable. Same 45A cooker switch+socket is spurred to adjacent 3A FCU using 6mm cooker cable (6mm...

Bathroom soon to be retiled. No supplementary bonding on anything at the moment. Usual bath (acrylic) plus copper pipes to loo, bath, basin. I understand supplementary bonding needs to include light, the timed extractor and the pullswitch which switches on light and the timed extractor (no...

I have a few packs of Tarkett engineered wood floor left and want to use them for my (small) bathroom floor rather than sell or chuck them. The bathroom floor is (carpeted!) big sheets of tongue and groove flooring chipboard (green) in a 5 year old house The underlay I used on ground floor...

laying an engineered, click-fit type wooden floor over existing floorboards. Which underlay type do you use and is DPM required? Downstairs there is an airgap under the exisiting floorboards that vents to the outside via airbricks Upstairs exisiting floorboards are of course above...

ha, of course, thanks for the reality check!

Deluks, that is a cracking idea. Hard to get fine mesh needed from DIY store. The splatter should be stainless steel as well so should last too.

Anyone have experience of attaching 6mm cooker circuit cable to a 1G unswitched 13A socket?? Reason is I want to change a cooker plate behind cooker to a 13A plug socket so I can plug a 2kW oven in (following grateful advice of learned posters on here). BTW, oven is part of freestanding dual...

thanks Adam, sounds great. RF Lighting from this forum came to same conclusion also. I couldnt find an unswitched MK 1gang socket, only a switched one !!! Dont seem to do them. I am assuming that as it is difficult to reach the socket behind the cooker, it is best unswitched? Any other makes...