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I had seen the 0-45 ones. You are right, more compact. I might be able to squeeze them in. In fact I’ll have to if the flexible malarkey amounts to nothing!

Your breather membrane on the outside will let any moisture out. Your foil backed/faced celotex which should have foil tape joining it over the studs will be you vapour barrier. Not an expert, but I think regs require 50mm over the top of the lot before plasterboard.

This did cross my mind. But the limited space I have to navigate wouldn’t take my freshly melted and bent rigid pipe. Kind of needs to be fed and bent as I go. Hard to describe other than it’s going to be a bugger.

Not on about those accordion type toilet pan connectors. These things are much more rigid. Only have a little flex… but need a long one or something equivalent. https://www.toolstation.com/magicflex-male-to-female-soil-pipe/p60727

This is the sort of stupid **** I’d do. Brilliant. Crack on, have an escape plan if it starts to run away from you and make sure you wear safety flip flops. Keep dogs and kids inside. Me and one mate lifted a 150kg 5m long steel up outside of my hobo scaffolding using a chain hoist that only...

Why is that? I’m not after that super flexible pipe like a toilet connector that could droop, something more rigid that can just be manipulated and persuaded around a shallow bend.

It’s already been covered, but in my old house I got over excited with the silicone and sealed both inside and outside of where the vertical wall profile channel met the glass. Got a leak in the corner I couldn’t work out. Read that you should only seal outside. Basically water whilst showering...

Imminently about to start my loft extension plumbing for the en-suite. The 110mm soil pipe will have a decent enough fall and is pretty much a straight run for 4m before it has to do a bit of jiggery pokery. Fall in this problem area is not an issue, nor are sharp bends, but it has to do 4 small...

Like that idea. Yes a stud wall meeting the low purlin directly above. Easy, minimal faff and cheap. Right up my street. I could even do 2 bits of 4x2 on their sides at a sole place for the stud wall to boost it up further.

Dropping below ceiling height is interesting. Below is the bathroom and I already have to overboard the ceiling anyway. But there is a pesky ceiling tie right in the way as you can see. That ceiling tie is right up against the wall where I’d want to pop through. The UB is also a good...

Now I have engineered this problem myself with lack of planning….. but when you don’t know what you’re doing, it’s hard to plan for what you don’t know is coming until you get there. So, my toilet in the loft conversion is going where I’m standing taking the photo. The 110mm stink pipe goes...

The screwfix sticky foam according to them is the holy grail I need. Apparently sticks foil backed insulation board to brick and plasterboard to foil PIR. I’ll report back in a couple of weeks when I do it asking for advice on how to fix a balls up!

Cheers chaps. Natural curing low modulus silicone it is. I’ll be pretty practiced now, having done this same job before….. admittedly wrong, but now I know!

For my initial thought of sticky foam, I was thinking of using that for the lot. Foam the PIR to the brick, then foam the plasterboard to the PIR. No studs at all to cold bridge, cover up or fix into. According to the advertising blurb I’ll be laughing all the way to saving 2” on each wall…...

Right. I shall try that. What’s the reasoning behind that just for interest?

Just wondering if anyone has advice on silicone sealant not sticking to UPVC window frames. My mums conservatory is fairly old and last year I replaced the internal silicone sealant in the corners where frames meet, but twice now it has peeled away. Used 2 different types, a no nonsense cheapo...

Time and fuss to save a fiver is right up my street. Tighter than a gnats chuff. So, the question….. can celotex be stuck to brick with sticky foam, then board stuck on top with the same stuff ….. no screws?

I have a similar conundrum. Gable end walls in a loft conversion to insulate. Insulated plasterboard is stupid expensive so ruled that out. Initial thoughts of battening out and then insulating over the top are going to loose me 10cm each side. Was going to just try for 50mm straight onto the...

Yep. That's the stuff I'm on about. I've emailed them for their spec and info to present to the BCO. Also working out a price. To be honest, it's expensive stuff. Especially as it's 4 coats of the base paint and 2 of the top..... Plus seals and hinges. Pretty much the cost of a fire door. But...

Fleabay.