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Went with the only option.... tear it up and order the proper colour. Found a supplier with old stock. An expensive mistake.

I strongly suspect I know the answer here, but..... Some how, I ended up with half a house worth of LVT flooring in a tone of grey instead of a tone of brown. It's the correct style and size, just the wrong colour. And now it's 2/3 fitted. And the product has been sitting here for a year so...

I used some Gypwall steel angles (Well, it was actually Knauf GA1), and screwed the plasterboard through (fine thread screws essential). Few spots of Sticks Like on the bottom of the steel, just to make sure it didn't move at all. Worked fine.

Level is fine, as the slabs will be slightly angled towards the drain, anyway....

Any further input appreciated, before I go and spend money :) Tim

OK, no bother to clean it up. I can mop it up too, gently. Is PVA 4-1 OK, or would SBR be better? Feather can be finished to 1mm, right?! Thanks for the help

Hi all, I am flooring a large room with Quick Step glue down. I have all the materials ready to do, and self-levelled the concrete floors Friday. However, part of the room is ply and self-levelling over it would have made it too high. Can I glue down onto the ply? And if so, do I need to...

The document you attached shows your personal details, you may want to take a screen capture of the important sections only

Thanks all, Think Ill try a bit of polymer adhesive (Got a tube of stixall in stock), and 3x 4x20mm screws, and see how I go. 19 of them to fit in the next few days. They have a clear plastic bit already in place to protect against plasterers. You can remove the lamp from below using a...

I have 4x20 and 3.5x16, so I'll see what works best. This has been very helpful, thank you. Would you go with a bit of Sticks Like behind the frame too?

Yes, solid insulation board. However, you will find it cheaper to take up the chipboard, fit a lifting kit (LoftZone do a good one), insulate well, and re-fit the chipboard.

I see what you mean, but what when there is no timber above? Will a plasterboard screw do it, whilst some glue goes off?

Hi all, I have a load of downlights that are to be plastered in to fit. They won't all be next to a joist above, and they don't have the spring clips, just a plastic section that gets plasterered over. What's the best way to secure them for plastering? I'm thinking of a bit of Sticks Like...

So did you have to drill a number of holes into the steel (It's fairly thick as a 203x203 46) and use self tappers/drillers to fix the board?

Thanks for the detail. We are in a bungalow, and if a fire was that intense I'd assume the house was done for anyway! Glasroc looks good, but bl00dy hell expensive! How would the Gypframe FEA1 Steel Angle work? It looks to have folds on the corners that would prevent mounting board to it...

Hi all, I have a steel through to an extension and fitting timber to secure the plasterboard boxing around it will bring it oversize. I have been suggested to wedge blocks of timber into the steel between the top and bottom plates. Is it as simple as cutting slightly too long 75x 50mm timber...

Interesting for the future, although I hope to not need to do much internal grinding again.... those are not cheap attachments!

The company only cut wet. I suppose its a health and safety thing, and the saws may overheat without the water? I used a 300m disc cutter outside a whole back, the times I forgot to start the water running were immediately obvious!

In much the same way as you comfortable with your 45degree water? If he wants paying sooner, he needs to exchange the boiler with his merchant.

They are WBP 18mm ply, so hopefully with my best attempt at protection, all will be OK?!