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For an RSJ opening the SE wants a new wall, I was happy to build it but only if I didn't have to start digging a new foundation for it. I drilled a hole and had about 23cm of solid material and with it being closish to a river suspected I could have a raft. With a raft the floor is structural so...

You've jumped the gun. I am feeding this to a SE. Knowing it isn't a raft, i.e the floor is not structural, progresses the next decision.

It is enough to know that. Thanks all.

The 600mm wall is a no go, I don't have a raft foundation and I'm not prepared to dig a foundation down in the kitchen it's a step too far. What I asked the SE is whether a 100 x 660 x 220 padstone could be put length ways, so the RSJ is on the 100 x 660 side and the load distributes on the...

Let's see if I've done enough... There's 7 layer of standard concrete brick and then I hit concrete (doesn't seem that even). There's a black thing to the side which chips away easily (the wood shutter turned to charcoal?). So it's not a raft, right?

Back of house is probably 50-70m from edge of river, and perhaps 10m up, roughly. If it is a raft it probably doesn't go down that far, so someone else said? I'm continuing to dig...

What's the difference though between it being a raft and trench fill, both are going to look the same at the bottom? I read a raft will go to the frost line, usually 900mm, and a trench might go further, but it also might not? It's not a council estate, year is 1984 but close to a river where...

I'll be digging in a bit, how deep is enough, until I strike oil? ;)

If it were a trench fill that wouldn't fill the inner though right?, or might you pour concrete in later on, in which case it almost becomes a raft foundation? Edit - raft has a steel mesh in the middle (so reenforced concrete)? Metal detector over a wide area of the floor?

I couldn't really get a definitive answer on Google. Does the picture confirm it's a raft foundation or is there any other foundation that uses a poured concrete outer? All my ground floors are concrete. One I drilled got soft at roughly 20cm.

300mm missing here and there for cavity walls but hopefully good enough to show structural walls. Doorways not included. For bearing the original lintel is going across the 2.4M section

I'll get on it, not too difficult for me to knock something up.

I don't have a floor-plan per say but can offer up everything the SE requested and a CAD I did. The CAD is internal measurements, excludes masonry width on the left side. Masonry is 270mm brick and concrete block (70mm cavity). All walls cavity based. There's already a lintel across the 2.8M...

I couldn't say one way or the other, I suppose I'd find out once I'd committed to (aka paid for) having the full report done. It's a bit of a chicken and egg scenario because this 600mm easter egg terminates the job; apart from a boiler being in the way I confirmed earlier today there's no...

I don't know Tony, but I know I'm stressed trying to find one that can actually do the calcs in a reasonable (not 2 months) time frame. (y) I have a larger issue now, the wall to the right he says has to come out 600mm for the lateral load on the front of the house, and I think that requires...

See I wouldn't have put mortar in-between two steels as it has nothing to set to. The steel or slate packers between the beam and padstone seem a worse place then putting the same across the length of the RSJ/lintel? As those padstones are going to take all the pressure? Can pack them as close...

I'm having a new RSJ put in (blue) to remove a wall (red). To reduce the work the beam is going beneath a steel lintel (green) already in place. The best approach seems to be up for deliberation so I thought I'd see what other opinions and ideas are out there... 1. jack the new RSJ against the...

Hi all, I moved into a house 6 months ago and found it is of shocking build quality. 1984, by people that really didn't give a ****. I'm trying to redo a lot of it properly and here I have the downstairs toilet room. For this gem, none of the walls are straight, either bulging or bad angles...

I didn't do the work. The trim at the bottom which the glass fits into has two floating brackets and these do screw into the tray. On the 6mm variant the brackets are different with no option. That the crack is still propagating indicates a problem under the tray, i.e the bed isn't level...

Epoxy fix has failed, tray continues to crack. Ordered another and will do the work myself.