Search results

Many years ago, I put down T&G floorboards in the bedroom. I've ripped up the carpet in the landing to continue T&G into the landing. The problem is that, when I did the bedroom, I used a 190mm, plain board to avoid a joint over the pipes. It seemed a good idea at the time but, over time...

I think I'll go with that - probably need to use wire wool to contend with the rough parts.

I wish I could afford that.

Nope - the entire wall had been painted for decades in oil-based paint!

The front of my terraced-house has always been painted with oil-based gloss. I want to use a masonry paint instead - is this possible? If so, would a thorough abrasion with a wire brush suffice to key the surface?

Which one would you recommend?

Thanks. It's well dried out, the surface is smooth and the loose fingers are flush with the stuck floor. I haven't been able to locate bitumen adhesive - people on other forums have been recommending Lecol 5500 this evening but you can't get that smaller than a 6kg tin.

I've had a burst pipe fixed in my hall but I've saved the parquet flooring that had to be lifted for the repair. I hope to re-lay the parquet and I'm wondering which adhesive to use, if not the original bitumen-type.

Thanks everyone for your kind help and attention.

Must check on eBay.

I've just measured the width: 40mm.

What size spanner do you reckon I need to buy? My 10" is too small.

Anyone know the correct way of opening this to replace the washer? https://ibb.co/g6bmM5

Thanks!

Where would you recommend getting veneered MDF?

It's just a console table 100cm x 32cm.

I'm going to take a crack at filling and graining - nothing to lose.

I might put in a bit of filler and then fiddle with some acrylic paint. If I make a hash of it, it won't matter as it can't look worse than it is now and I always have plan B: put a lamp/vase/doily on it.

The wife has tried to set fire to our lovely oak table via her oil burner. Any ideas on how to fix/disguise it other than sticking a vase on top?