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I'd use lime mortar as it deals with heat better. For that brickwork I'd use a flush joint hit with a churn brush when it's green hard.

50's houses didn't normally have a DPM under the slab, which protects it from the problem. Doesn't mean it will definitely get a sulphate attack.

It's a good idea to have a drainage system behind a retaining wall.

Lime mortar is a mix of lime and sand. There's many different types of sand, and many different types of lime. The 2 main types of lime are air limes, and hydraulic lime.

He was thinking of doing something this in gauged brickwork, only a bit more complex.

It'll be full of gravel.

The binder in that video looks like ciment fondu, which goes hard really quick. Used it on drain repairs to the joints on salt glaze drains.

You'll struggle to lay bricks with concrete.

If it's only a short run and not too many tiles you could cut them in half, so the nibs wouldn't be on either side. You'd need to fix a temporary batten to take the bottom edge of the tiles, but once the brick on edge has been laid it will hold the tiles in place.

You need them with a double camber.

They might not match yours.

They've definitely got a camber. Peg tiles are nibless, although they have holes for the pegs.

Creasing tiles don't have a camber. Any merch should sell them. Yours look like roofing tiles.

When you backfill around a new manhole it doesn't usually get wacked.

It should have one if built in the 30's.

When they built solid 9 inch walls in Stretcher bond, there would always be a 3/8 joint(known as the wall joint) in the centre. With English it was there on the stretcher course, but not on the header course. The bricklayers made it easier for themselves when building a 9 inch wall with all...

Years ago the method for toothing was to leave the joints empty till the end of the job to allow for any settlement, and have the new gauge 1/16 higher.

It can be toothed, but if the existing bricks are Imperial and the new are metric, the bed joints will probably be quite big.

Without any lateral restraint the ends are likely to go out of plumb. You're also more likely to get a movement crack at the join.

Most people use wall starters nowadays. There's a number of advantages, including not being restricted to following the same brick gauge as the house. E.g. The house might have really large or small joints, or different sized bricks.