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Yeah for sure, the weight is a concern Main limitation I see on a tower is they are tall and narrow and more often, I'd much prefer a longer run. I did find some products like this Kwikstage which seem a bit of a between solution, never seen these before...

Both my house and some very tall hedges are much easier to work on with a proper platform, at first storey height or above. Having had scaffold on the house I really appreciate how easy it makes things and how it makes more jobs possible to DIY. I could see we would get regular use out of a...

Bit of an update, I contacted Baxi and it turns out they offer fixed-price for £369 with a £90 call-out if they cannot repair. They ALSO offer a monthly "repair out of warranty monthly plan" for £30.75 a month, over 12 months (same total cost if you don't renew). Under the plan they come for an...

Chipboard is probably even worse than ply for water unless you get a special type. You often see buildings faced in OSB left for quite some time in the weather, it seems to be the go-to option these days.

The comment I'd seen on screws was the heads can dimple it a bit - but maybe this is being a bit anal, I'm not sure. If it's cosmetic only, perhaps doesn't really matter. I wonder if one can simply tape them but then you don't tape the OSB joints as far as I've seen so may be OTT. This is a...

Osb3 is reasonably good with moisture, definitely better than plywood which delaminates easily (all the layers unstick)... This is the problem we have and why I'm having to replace it. You can get moisture resistant marine plywood but it costs a fortune. Every video I've seen they use OSB and it...

3 quick questions... 1. Am I right in thinking nothing other than 18mm OSB3 should be considered for this? 2. Has everyone switched to the half-size T&G boards these days despite the higher cost? 3. We would be screwing through 150mm to the sub-structure, should I be doing anything to the...

What's the reasoning behind this - just not knowing what you might hit?

Well there is the 50mm of insulation too. I can see 120mm and 150mm options, guessing 120 is just a bit on the short side. Would you pilot drill through battens, pir into brick with a long drill then just whack the screw in? That's sounds quite a quick way to do things

I'm affixing 50mm PIR on a low brick wall and I plan to glue the boards to the wall first then batten on top with 25mm battens and mechanically fix through. There's quite a few options for fixings - hammer/frame fixings, rawl+long screws, and various fixings that don't need a rawl. Prices vary...

yeah I can imagine this is harder than it looks to get all the boards flush (I only have a 800mm high dwarf wall so hoping not quite so bad.)

On my greenhouse rebuild project, the structure is on a slope. At the top (left in photo) end, the floor is around a foot below ground level and the top end of the concrete floor rests on the ground (no DPM) - the rest of the building the floor is suspended and above ground level by several...

So cutting PIR accurately is tricky enough at 90 degrees (I use the SkillBuilder tip) without trying to do at an angle. I wonder if I can use my circular saw on an angle just to start it off - I am aware of the dust problem :)

I have never used dot'n' dab and saw a recommendation for Dryfix. It sounds great especially for a DIY-er without the experience of D&D, would others recommend it from personal use? I've seen cost mentioned as a con but even at £12 a can, that looks to be ~£3 per full board and as I am looking...

He loves his gapo (watched a bunch of guys videos)...I love the concept but it costs half as much as the PIR! They need to invent squishy PIR :) Thanks.

I am insulating between rafters with PIR in a home project (my greenhouse conversion) and not sure what to do at the peak and in the eaves since the end of the board won't butt perpendicular to the ridge, etc. Do I try and mitre the ends of the PIR boards or accept it won't fit snugly and...

Thanks, I hadn't heard of those before, assume this sort of thing is what you mean - they self drill and provide reinforcement? https://www.toolstation.com/brickfix-helical-bar/p58328 It may well be subsidence although there doesn't seem much vertical displacement and the crack starts partway...

This is a former Victorian hot house, now being converted as a garden room. We've already reduced the chimney to about half height but I've noticed a crack running up the remainder. It doesn't reach the top or bottom for now and isn't actually functional, but I'd like to stop it getting worse...

We plan to replace the top deck on a warm-roof project. It is a standard setup currently T&G lower deck -> VPL -> PIR -> 18mm ply -> shingles and the ply will be re-laid with OSB and EPDM used so the new roof will retain the PIR and be virtually the same except using EPDM as the weatherproof...

Just to clarify, do I need to glue both sides or is it ok/best to glue one side only, then seal up to it on the other? I.e. is the glue only there to hold it in place so it can be sealed later?