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OK. Is just closing TRV sufficient or lockshield and TRV?

Thanks but on second drain down/refill this was the first thing I tried after bleeding of course... nothing doing

OK so here is what I have done. Put in pipework to new rad, drained down full system, moved rad to new location on adjacent wall Connected back up Re filled sealed system to 1 bar cold. From upstairs bled all rads Re filled loop to 1 bar as many times as necessary. Starting with moved rad bled...

Easy flow you are a star!!! Bang on mate! The culprit was indeed the descaler The descaler cover turned out to be bust. There are two little red buttons either side used to remove cover for topping up with descaler balls. one button had been pushed in with excessive force and was...

The story on the boiler is that it is othetwise fine but for no water flow. It has been like this for some time and they asked me if I could have a look. As I say the CH is fine, I am going round in the morning to check if it might be a descaler blockage. I presume if I open the filling loop and...

Many thanks - boiler is not actually mine, I shall concentrate my attention on the descaler as my next task :-)

I assume you mean the valve on the cold water supply pipe below the boiler? This is ON (big red handle in line with pipe) but it goes through an electric descaler thingy before reaching the boiler - could it be that which is preventing water even getting to the boiler?

Hi all ...no hot water as in no flow, at all. No flow from any hot tap in the house. I've seen quite a few fixes on DIYnot for this one, and (unless I am doing it wrong) it's not a simple valve left closed after refilling the central heating, as others have had. pic below if this helps...

Wifey bought a Roman blind once - you know the type that you pull up with a cord and secure to a cleat. The blind went up no problem, all I had to do was drill two holes two plugs bish bash bosh fasten cleat bobs your uncle. Unfortunately where I wanted to secure the cleat there lurked...

The more I look at this the more extending the one pipe system appeals - the hard part being laying under the landing floor boards - I can go above floor level in the rooms and box in with those upvc pipe covers. 'Soblem Prolved'! - just need to wait til June when we turn off the CH and I can...

Stem - I was thinking of trying to reconfigure the 10mm 'to see if it would work' but having had time to mull it over that would be potentially a waste of time - what deterred me was the upheaval of all the furniture in the rooms. On reflection I quite agree with you. 15mm is the way to go!

Thank you to all posters for your suggestions - it seems the 10mm pipes are totally unsuitable - I remember the plumbers subcontracted by the builder seemed to be in a bit of a hurry and had the work done in one day. Oh well, lessons learned! Bons idea seems the best starting point in terms...

I have a central heating system with a piping layout that is obsolete - big bore pipes that go in one big feed/return loop (1" or 3/4" imperial pipes I believe). The radiators are tapped off the big bore pipe with 1/2" 'off shoots'. The house is very warm in the winter and I don't have any...

Ahh right - yes - interesting story! By the time I'd got to about plumber number four in the Thomson Local, expecting to get yet another 'sorry but I'm EXTREMELY busy and cant possibly come out til the mumbleteenth' story, I was told "yes we ARE busy but just out of interest can you tell me...

Thanks - I will definitely look into this!

Fixed!!!! I can thoroughly recommend Wickes pipe freezing kit - worked a treat! The gate valve was clogged up with brownish residue of some sort - put a new valve in anyway - as soon as the ice plug broke down I could hear a very reassuring gluggidy glug glug glug as the supply filled up...

picasso it looks as though you have nailed it! drained off a good pint or three and the water level in the small tank has remained totally static. As far as I can tell the pipe at the bottom of the CH tank goes directly to the gate valve mentioned above. I risked loosening the bottom...

Many thanks for your replies so far - most appreciated! Just had a look in the loft - CH header tank is full I've left the timer on HW OVERRIDE all night (CH OFF) and hot water temp is about 20­ºC at a guess (ie - NOT HOT!) Nearest Rad to the boiler is in the bathroom and its toasting...

Nope - nothing like that - coil entry and exit are straight through runs of pipe and both disappear through the floor down to the boiler.

I'll check tank in the morning - yes there is a gate valve which shuts off the supply from the small CH header tank - it connects directly to the bottom tank heater coil pipe after the 2 port valve, going down into the boiler in kithchen downstairs (tank is upstairs directly above boiler in...