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sounds like you haven't wires up your components properley!!!! :(

boiler will still run on your boiler and if pump doesn't circulate water, will cause the water to make a kettling" noise inside the heat exchanger and probably cause an ejection from the vent pipe ino the F & E cistern. Unless your boiler has an overheat stat.

Do modern room stat's / digital room stats that do not require the neutral wire to make an anticiaptor work - have a resistor instead which is operated by a battery? i take it the resistor is a thermistor actually though? Just been bugging me today as I was thinking of chainging but not...

I have a manual shower over my bath, a dial type (round). It has separate hot and cold feeds to it. The pipes are concealed in the airing cupboard just behind it and the dial is flush on the tiles. It is about 12 years old now and drips a bit under the control wheel. If I am to change it...

thanks for the link! so basically they are to give extra protection to hot water draw offs (like a thermostatic mixer valve). only thing is they all seem to be 15mm connections and most primary connections to and from the hwsv are 22mm!!

What exactly is a "TAP STAT"? and where would they be fitted and their purpose? I have heard them mentioned in some posts on this site but have never seen one and never read about one either!??

Part 2 are best type now for fitting to cold water tanks in lofts. part 1 hae a high backflow risk and are not permitted.

as a matter of interest, on both the cwcs and f & e vent pipes ..... maybe as mtnioned above water leaks out overflow until the normal amount of dry head is achieved again?!

here's one - when backfilling a system (to get air out via the vent) - after doing this how does the level of water in the vent pipe level out again to its original level?!! the normal level is supposed to be the same as that of the level of water in the cold water tank .... how is this...

i have found that drop valves (push button) after a while dont give a very good / clean flush. and siphons are like;y to be longer lasting. also with a b & q push button (the type with the plastic leve linking the valve to the button ) you can fit these on any toilet - remove the old handle...

yeah just fit a standard 50 gallon tank. i have never seen a 25 gallon tank used for a f & e cistern though - more like a 4 gallon tank.

the reason i ask is as i fitted a new thermostat on my cylinder about 5 months ago - and tested it (it turned on and off properley). but if the sensor part blew and didn't shut off the supply at 60 degrees (which i have set it at) - how would i know? The water from my hot tap is hot (i cant...

Just a question (probably sounds dumb) :) but to put my mind at ease after reading through some posts on here lately. If a cylinder stat or an immerson heater thermostat fail (on an opne vented system) - the water will probably boil (unless the thermostat on the immersion heater was a newer...

just a quick question/query - when fitting a surrey flange at the top of the hot water cylinder and running the pipe to a mixer shower (no pump just straight to the mixer) - does the pipe run have to be as straight as possible, or is a 45 degree bend downwards allowed? i don't want an airlock...

i believe most sinks are of standard size ranges and surely a straight swap can be done without any extra cutting? my point was, how are plastic sinks tightened to the worktop in general? surely they are not just pushed in??

I am thinking of changing my old plastic kitchen sink for a new modern stainless steel type. I have a few question's I'd like to ask and if anyone could help me I'd be very thankful. Is it hard to get a plastic sink out? I had it installed about 15 years ago and I don't know how it is...

just tried to change a washer in my bathroom mixer tap (the cold side). took off the headgear assembly and tried to put the washer in but no joy. it was slightly thicker and shorter (didn't think this would make a difference or much of one tho). But when replaced and water back on the flow...

i'd personally rather buy a new dual flush valve instead of fiddling around getting the correct washer-might be just as expensive too! :)

what are the best levels to set the water in both cwsc's and f&e cistern's? I know that both by building regs should be a min of 25mm below the invert of the warning pipe, but that is when heated! Is there a general rule of thumb to use when setting both?

are u fitting it on the primary flow (near your hot water cylinder feed) - the highest point in the circuit?