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Well it was the main switch. Probably water ingress as CU is in outside meter box (1970s install) that was leaking but now fixed. Also high Ze 0.72ohms on TNCS so National Grid on their way to look at that.

Had the bus bar out and checked, all looked good and then replaced correctly.

Checked all tight and good

If if loose neutral in the head there wouldn't be power at the meter would there?

Tested with proper two pole Fluke voltage tester. Not a lighty up thing!

We keep losing power to entire installation despite power to the meter. The board is 17th edition with all RCBOs 6 circuits. Power to entire house goes off but nothing trips on the board, all RCBOs still on but test buttons don't operate and main switch still on but no power. Meter shows power...

It's probably 7029 the imperial cable equivalent of 2.5 mm.

If I get run over by a bus my wife knows where they are and if we both get run over by a bus I don't care!

Remember this is a shower-fan/light with a SELV halogen light in the vent over the shower and an in-line fan in the loft venting to the eves. Hence the isolation is by the fan in the loft. Yes it goes through the FCU first and then to the switch, the shower-fan/light unit instructions...

Yes. Lights and fan/light are switched separately, lights on 2 pole pull cord and fan/light on single pole pull cord.

That's how mine was when we moved in in the early 80s. House built in mid-late 70s with CU & ELCB in meter box. I thought you needed main bonding to the MET in the CU otherwise the water main gives a parallel path to earth and the thing doesn't trip. I added main bonding connected back to the...

I've got one in my meter box 'protecting' my installation. :shock: Planning a CU change soon as I know it is obsolete.

A valid point, but I wanted to put the bathroom lighting on an RCD and since i have no intention of ever moving until forced by age, infirmity or my demise I should be here for another 20+ years ( I hope :) ). And they are in clear view in the well lit loft and labelled. So not too hard to find.

I fitted an in-line shower fan and light along with 4 downlighters (outside of zones, and with sealed loftcaps) when I refurbed the bathroom 18 months ago. The fan/light I used required fusing at 3A, the lighting circuit of course is 6A so as our CU is an old Wylex with plugin MCBs (PIR and...

I have these. I am sure it says they must be surface mounted. The ideal thong is to install the receiver remotely, probably near you wiring centre or boiler. And just have the wireless thermostat in the room.

I think it is amazing that you heat your flowers! :D Sorry can't help try posing in an more appropriate forum :?:

Isn't that the point? Are not the council confirming compliance to BS7671 as part of the part P approval process? He's paid the guy to to the install and paid the LBCO to do the inspection and testing. He has an installation which has been inspected by the LBCO at 1st and 2nd fix but has not...

You will need IP65 rated ones if they are over the bath or shower elsewhere you may be out of zones depending on your ceiling height //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:speclcn:bathroom_zones No you don't necessarily need fire rated but you do need to seal over the hole and allow adequate...

Yep. Some of these http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Necessities~Cable_Protection/index.html would do nicely.

I have one of these and it has worked faultlessly for the last year(and still does touch wood). Confirm that you do indeed have live and neutral from the supply connected to the appropriate terminals. You really need a multimeter or voltage tester (not a neon screwdriver) to test. If the...