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Bump … can anyone advise ? Would lap vents be any use on a butterfly roof?

We have a problem with white mould on our rafters, which has been put down to poor ventilation. I am hoping for some advice on how to improve our situation ... This is a late 19th century terrace house with a London pitch or butterfly roof, which gives us two completely separate, shallow loft...

i had just had this problem & found that the problem was my header tank was empty - the float arm mustve been stuck so it hadn't refilled. seems fine now. thanks to previous posters for all the advice.

My P60 has been having trouble firing up recently - ticking over 5-6 times before reigniting. I had a reputable London company come for a service and they recommended replacing the PCB (again!), which they subsequently did for £300+VAT. since then, the boiler fires for 2-3 minutes then turns off...

thanks for your quick reply CBF from the instructions on the opella site, it looks like the restrictor is fitted in the top half of the adjustable column ... if this is the case, can i just shut off the water & unscrew the top part to remove it, or does it defintely need to be disconnected at...

i've finally had the fill valve replaced with the new style torbeck adjustable height bottom fill valve. (LF00122) which poses two new questions ... 1. on the new valve, the water comes in through the plastic ring and goes down the "bag", which makes the trickle audible - is this correct ...

thanks both. i was worried that there might not be enough room for the fluidmaster. forgive my ignorance, but where should the fibre washer go ? and is this something i need to buy separately from the torbeck bottom entry valve pack ? earl

I've been having problems with a Torbeck bottom fill valve not shutting off. Have replaced the diaphram a few times but it doesn't fix the problem for long. It's also recently been hammering when it does shut off after filling. So now I'm thinking of replacing the Torbeck with a Fluidmaster...

that's easy for you to say ! where and how would i do this ?

i have a hotpoint WD63 washer dryer & recently noticed that it doesn't seem to be heating up during the wash cycle. it works fine on a dryer cycle. would appreciate any advice on identifying & fixing the problem. the machine is about 14 years old so i need to decide if it's worth repairing...

thanks for the replies - i realise it's because the valves might leak if they are forced. should a TRV be fitted to each of the radiators ? and what should i expect to pay someone to do the work or replacing & balancing ? earl

I have an old system with conventional potterton 60e boiler, water tank, header tank and cylinder. It's a 3 floor house with 10 radiators. Most of the radiator valves have seized in their current positions and there is no room thermostat. The radiators haven't been balanced since I moved in 14...

not sure what you mean by this ... but the fan is fixed now and i'll think about what to do in the long term - and get some other quotes / recommendations - when it gets a bit warmer. it cost £247 for parts, labour and a service - haven't had one of those for a while - but today was one...

he recommended a combi. i honestly don't know enough about the benefits over a conventional boiler. no, he didn't check the water flow rate ... please elaborate ...

i was coming round to the quick fix fan replacement recommendation but then the nice, recommended plumber came around this evening, took one look at the boiler / piping and said the inevitable "you ought to get that replaced." he's going to check the fan cost tomorrow and let me know what it...

PS !! on the other hand , it's getting colder and british gas seem to be offering a fixed fee repair for £210 http://www.britishgas.co.uk/products-and-services/maintenance-and-repair/central-heating-repairs.html would this be a good idea for a quick fix ? and should i expect to have...

here's a wide shot so you can see the full glory in situ :- if it's going to cost £2-300 to get the fan fixed, then i don't mind shelling out now to get the whole unit replaced and all the piping redone. if i go this route, please could you give me an idea of what that might cost...

what do you mean ? is that a standard installation ?!?

thanks - you all seem to be pretty unanimous. replacing the PCB 15 months ago cost me nearly £400 so i was worried i might be throwing good money after bad having the 60e repaired again. (i see now that the PCB which i was charged about £250 + VAT for could've been bought online for less than...

i think it's time to replace my potterton profile 60e, which is at least 12 years old. it had some problems last year and the PCB was replaced by a particularly unfriendly corgi engineer. last night it starting buzzing but was working and this morning it's been humming but hasn't ignited, so no...