OK so here is what I have done. Put in pipework to new rad, drained down full system, moved rad to new location on adjacent wall
Connected back up
Re filled sealed system to 1 bar cold.
From upstairs bled all rads
Re filled loop to 1 bar as many times as necessary.
Starting with moved rad bled...
Easy flow you are a star!!! Bang on mate!
The culprit was indeed the descaler
The descaler cover turned out to be bust.
There are two little red buttons either side used to remove cover for topping up with descaler balls. one button had been pushed in with excessive force and was...
The story on the boiler is that it is othetwise fine but for no water flow. It has been like this for some time and they asked me if I could have a look. As I say the CH is fine, I am going round in the morning to check if it might be a descaler blockage. I presume if I open the filling loop and...
I assume you mean the valve on the cold water supply pipe below the boiler?
This is ON (big red handle in line with pipe) but it goes through an electric descaler thingy before reaching the boiler - could it be that which is preventing water even getting to the boiler?
Hi all
...no hot water as in no flow, at all. No flow from any hot tap in the house.
I've seen quite a few fixes on DIYnot for this one, and (unless I am doing it wrong) it's not a simple valve left closed after refilling the central heating, as others have had.
pic below if this helps...
Wifey bought a Roman blind once - you know the type that you pull up with a cord and secure to a cleat.
The blind went up no problem, all I had to do was drill two holes two plugs bish bash bosh fasten cleat bobs your uncle.
Unfortunately where I wanted to secure the cleat there lurked...
The more I look at this the more extending the one pipe system appeals - the hard part being laying under the landing floor boards - I can go above floor level in the rooms and box in with those upvc pipe covers.
'Soblem Prolved'! - just need to wait til June when we turn off the CH and I can...
Stem - I was thinking of trying to reconfigure the 10mm 'to see if it would work' but having had time to mull it over that would be potentially a waste of time - what deterred me was the upheaval of all the furniture in the rooms. On reflection I quite agree with you.
15mm is the way to go!
Thank you to all posters for your suggestions - it seems the 10mm pipes are totally unsuitable - I remember the plumbers subcontracted by the builder seemed to be in a bit of a hurry and had the work done in one day. Oh well, lessons learned!
Bons idea seems the best starting point in terms...
I have a central heating system with a piping layout that is obsolete - big bore pipes that go in one big feed/return loop (1" or 3/4" imperial pipes I believe). The radiators are tapped off the big bore pipe with 1/2" 'off shoots'.
The house is very warm in the winter and I don't have any...
A basic view without showing compression fittings or lock sheld valves that shows how the radiators in my house are connected to a big bore feed / return loop
As far as I can tell without ripping floor boards up, this is how the pipes in my CH system are connected. Feed and return are via 1" or 3/4" imperial pipes from which the radiators are tapped off with 1/2" copper pipe
My central heating system piping layout uses big bore pipes that go in one big feed/return loop (1" or 3/4" imperial pipes I believe). The radiators are tapped off the big bore pipe with 1/2" 'off shoots'. Here are some (basic!) diagrams that hopefully show the layout of the piping of my house.<br>
Ahh right - yes - interesting story!
By the time I'd got to about plumber number four in the Thomson Local, expecting to get yet another 'sorry but I'm EXTREMELY busy and cant possibly come out til the mumbleteenth' story, I was told "yes we ARE busy but just out of interest can you tell me...