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Yes it's fine. No mechanical issues with the handle. Once started it will carry on dribbling no matter how much pumping I do on the handle. PS Why is the font size for this forum huge? No other website comes out huge.

Thanks. I try that and it does not stop the dribbling. Only breaking the siphon joint to let air in does it.

Every few months our 24 year old slimline concealed cistern does not properly stop flushing. It continues flowing at a fast dribble. How can it do this when the volume of water flowing surely is insufficient to maintain a siphon? I suppose it means that the suction of the column of water exiting...

Here are some real photos of the key and valve. It does have a 10mm hex on the end although not all similar valves have the hex shaped recess as this one is rounded off. Putting “water meter stopcock key” into Google and looking at all the many images that come up does not show an any key...

Southern Water in the Hampshire area seem to use a key for the stopcock that is completely different from any available in shops, etc. Where can I buy one as someone has stolen mine? I can't take a decent picture of it as it is down a long hole in the garden but will try to describe it. The top...

Not quite that simple in this case sadly.

We have 2 Worcester GB162-65 gas boilers wired to run together on one pair of on/off wires on the 2 way green terminal block marked WA. Our boiler installer did not mark these wires as volt free so another electrician connected them to mains when doing some time clock mods. One boiler now only...

Do the Pegler valves work with Litewave room thermostats?

Just bought 2 Lightwaverf LW900 valves from B&Q and not having much success with them. Tried three different radiators of around 10 years vintage with 2 different makes of TRV and on every one the F1 error message immediately comes on for valve actuator sluggish. Why is this and does it meant...

Wow thanks for all the great ideas. Getting firms in for quotes so ideas are useful. Anyone in Winchester area want to quote? Send me a PM please. To answer a few points, we are upgrading one toilet to disabled type so could add that alarm but suspect we will use a new low temp rad in that...

I help maintain a village hall which needs a new boiler. It was built 30-40 years ago with a single pipe system with one loop feeding all rads. There are about 6 large rads in several rooms all on one floor. The main iron pipe is about 3” diameter and mainly mounted exposed at skirting board...

Newton’s law of cooling states that the convection heat loss is proportional to the difference between ambient and inside temperature, ignoring draughts and radiation which follows similar but not exactly proportional rules. So the longer it is heated the larger the loss in my view. So for a...

I assume these devices have a learning routine that adjusts future performance based on past warm up time, as there is no setting to tell the device how quickly one’s building heats up.

Thanks for that. It is what I want but the CM907 stat that is referred to there only predicts ahead 2 hours it seems and we need up to 5 hours. I have contacted Honeywell to see if there is another model they do without this limitation. I assume these devices have a learning routine that...

Danfoss answered an email I sent for more data and it seems their system is too expensive for us. Siemens do the Synco™ 200 range which looks similar and a bit cheaper but is not specifically a weather compensator. Anyone met them? It does seem to be all things to all men which might mean it...

It is two Keston 170s although about to be changed. How would that 2 wire connection work as I need an adjustable input based on degrees per hour of heat up time? Apologies for delayed response, looks like my emails notifications of new posts are not working despite being set.

I need a central heating programmer that has an input that makes the on time auto setting depending on outside or inside temperature or both. Can one be bought for <£200? There are complex ones for industrial buildings and offices but too expensive for me. I want to enter the time when the...

Now got a reply from Keston who say that spark gap may need adjusting. Speaking as an electrical engineer I can see that if it’s too big and marginal the spark will sometimes jump between the two spades as I observed rather than jump the spark gap. Won’t be doing it myself but will tell my...

That is why I am getting the engineer to replace it to make sure its all safe after I do the bearings. Will leaving the covers off have affected its starting reliability? Have contacted Atag and they have sent drawings of theirs so I will see it is fits. Our flue space is very tight...

Thanks Tony for input. What other than bearings would cause the motor to fail to start particularly after sitting idle last summer? It was really stiff. I changed the motor capacitors as they measured about half the rated capacitance but this did not totally cure it. Don’t worry I am not...