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And you saved yourself £100 in call-out charges :D

There's a dead easy work-around for G2 owners who want to replace a dead battery, but don't have the engineer code and don't want the hassle of trying to reset codes. 1. Remove the mains fuse from external fused spur (external sounder will sound). 2. Open the control panel. 3. Place the new...

No reason to choose the 44 over the 20 other than any future requirement for more zones. The base panel has 12 hard wired zones. Adding an RF portal means you can mix wired/wireless. The 44 allows more than one RIO (hard wired 8 zone expander) to be added for situations where it makes hard...

Agreed, 5 yrs is pretty good. In a hot cupboard, sometimes requires replacement in 3. The Galaxy panel also automatically load tests the battery once every 24hrs.

Strange, if you remove and re-add AUX power to the keypad, the keypad may show no data for a few seconds, but it should re-sync when display data is resent to it. If you changed the keypad address between the power off, then it would not reconnect. If you remove panel power and re-apply it...

A Galaxy G2-20 or G2-44 with Keyprox, RF portal and IP module will do it. You can get an email or text alert when 'Bill' sets or unsets the system with his tag too. If he has an issue with the system, you can connect via your smart phone and sort things out remotely. You're looking at...

It depends how the daisychain is wired. If the panel is at the end of the chain, then a break between the panel and the first keypad would cause all keypads to fail. If the panel is in the middle somewhere, then only the keypads on one side of the chain would go down. Intermittent failures...

You are confusing yourself. It does not make sense to be removing all fuses and placing one in at a time. Just test the fuse, or replace with a known good one. It sounds like the bell is being powered by AUX. Not ideal, but will not cause a problem - you will only get the bell warning when...

No, the panel should supply power with no battery connected. Check the fuses.

Do they have matching battery leads? :) I thought that's why yellow and blue were generally used for the zones... Ie. where 4 core cables had red, black, yellow and blue.

securitywarehouse You need to buy the backplate and cover separately. Sec warehouse are about the cheapest online security supplier. I have no affiliation. I just buy kit from them sometimes.

I'm not referring to a thing. I am referring to the practice. It's something that 'people do'. An attempt to make something secure by obscuring it. It's very common in poor security implementations both hardware and software. If you need to look up an online dictionary in an attempt to...

It's pretty much common sense for red and black to be wired as power. To obfuscate power cabling is unwise and will only lead to blown fuses and damaged equipment. If it's something that you practice, then you're in the minority.

For a cost effective European based system, take a look at the Honeywell Galaxy range. A decent G2-44 system with IP and RF portal, battery, keypad and external siren will come in at around £230. Add wireless sensors to that for about £25 each. It's a hybrid system, so you can have a mix...

So, if green and white are going to +12V and 0V aux on the panel, then they need to go to the supply on the new PIR. Pretty poor wiring though. Can you post a picture of the wiring at the panel just to be sure?

There are many threads on the subject. If you go for one of the main brands, then you'll not be disappointed. Honeywell Galaxy, Texecom Premier, Etc. My preference is the Honeywell Galaxy series for domestic. You can pick up a new G2-44 panel with keypad for around £100 (that's 44 zones...

I would meter the voltages. Your labeling doesn't line up with standard colours for the power. Are you sure it's not TT + - NC from top to bottom ? With red being +12V and black being 0V ? If you can get that right, then it's green and white to the two tamper NC terminals (doesn't...

The only way to hold off the SAB is to supply power to it. Disconnecting the battery should not cause any problems as there's no fault output. ADT only fit the internal SAB siren where they don't fit an external live siren - the reg's dictate this.

Yes, RTN is tamper return. The sounder will pull this to 0v when the tamper is closed. Insert one leg of a 1k resistor in the RTN terminal. The other end connect to a wire via a screw terminal and then wire back to the panel zone. You don't need a second wire into the zones 0V connection, as...

Wire the old internal siren H+ and H- to the same connections as the new external bell box. Bell +12V and 0V. You can connect RTN via a 1K resistor to a spare zone if you want to detect tamper on the internal sounder. If not, leave disconnected. Are you sure you're using the TRIG 1001...