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We have Freesat, it was installed when the previous owner of the house was here, so I have no idea if it was done properly. The box has always been a bit 'buzzy', giving a slight tingle if you touch the top panel. I eventually got round to swapping the box for another today, and it seems...

I have used Lithofin Slate seal on trav before, it takes a few coats but gives a lovely finish. You have to make absolutely sure there's no grout residue on the tiles first. K

Glad it worked... much easier than re-grouting!! :lol: K

both Marchrist and Rubi are good, but they're both pretty pricey. That's the problem with trying to get through porcelain... K

How long have they been up? With porcelain of that size, there is a pretty good chance the adhesive behind the tiles is still wet. If you can get a smallish paint scraper behind them you could be able to lever them off. K

I'd still get over there sharpish to take them down and clean them :wink: K

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Avoid all of the diy stuff. Get proper trade quality adhesive instead. I'd board the whole room out to be sure and weigh the tiles to see what you're up against. Your grout and adhesive is going to be about 4kg per m2. K

Anyone who deals with JP Distribution will be able to supply both of the others. www.jpdistribution.co.uk K

Have you tried these? http://www.refreshinteriors.co.uk/fitted_kitchen.htm 900mm wall units used to be quite common but there don't seem to be many about. If you can find a supplier of Four Seasons Kitchens near you they do wall units in four heights; 712 and 900 Standard wall units, and...

its just the salts in the grout rising to the surface. The usual cause is the tiler using too wet a sponge when cleaning the grout back. with your mosaic, has the grout stained it at all? the normal advice with that sort of product is to seal before laying as it makes them easier to clean...

What about every ones favourite auction site? K

Do you have any bits of the mosaic left over? You may be able to test it on that. It does say that it can be used on some stone, but I'd be careful! :wink: Is the mosaic sealed in any way? K

I could be wrong, as I don't know if Bal superflex is susceptible but it sounds to me like you have efflorescence. If this is the case, you'll be able to take the top layer of grout off by using a mild acid, such as Lithofin cement away (diluted) try it on a small out of the way area first and...

Try posting this in the tiling section, some of the guys there may have come across this setup before, and should be able to give you more advice on the wet room thing. If you ask the mods nicely they'll move it for you. :D K

Unless you used a rapid set or some sort of decoupling membrane it sounds to me like you tiled onto it too quickly. I think that the standard drying time is something like 1mm per day. Force drying can weaken the screed. K

I'm sure you'll get more comprehensive advice from Woodyoulike when she spots this, and I may be wrong, but I thought a wood floor would need to be acclimatised for more than a week in the room. Some people have told me it can take 3 or 4 weeks for it to settle. K

Did the bag state one-part Flexible or two-part? It is advised by most adhesive manufacturers that you do not add flexible additive to an already flexi adhesive, the result quite often turns to dust under the tiles. Flexi adhesive is already polymer modified and they have a tendancy to react...

Tanking is a waterproof membrane like this one: http://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/BAWP1SPK.html?gclid=CLyGxcWgpKkCFQRP4Qodvxb-uA There are probably places that sell it cheaper than that though! For that size tile you would need a cement based powder adhesive. However, you have limited...

Have a look at Ikea's Faktum kitchen range with Harlig White doors. They still use Blum hinges etc with them and can be soft close for a couple of quid per unit. Remember though that there's no service void at the back of the unit. K