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Thanks Steve, I'll have to try and have a another look at one at the local suppliers.

Steve how do you find the little 1010 router? I'd like a little 1/4 router to use with my hinge jig and for light profiling, chamfering, etc. Like the look of them, just unsure how they wpould perform with the the handle configuration when outing out hinges, especially with the jig vertically...

Have a TS55 plunge saw and it's fantastic, speeds hanging doors up no end. Not sure it's worth the premium over the other plunge saws on the market though.

Hi all, Anyone tried the new Makita 18v Li-Ion Planer? Interested in buying one body only as I have loads of batteries. I do have a 110v planer for heavy duty stuff but just wondered what it would be like.....it would be nice not to have to dig out the transformer whenever I need to plane...

I'd be tempted to do similar to what Steve said but if you have access to a circular saw take 5mm of the top (would be more difficult with a hand saw) and then the remaining 13mm to 15mm off the bottom. If you do this use a temporary straight edge to guide the saw and score the cut line with a...

Hi all, Recently fitted a new kitchen and have now been asked if I will go back and tile. Upon further inspection one area of the wall is in poor condition and would take an awful lot of patching due to loose plaster and holes where sockets have been moved. It is only one wall and the other...

Thanks for the reply foxhole. In the past I have got away with just adjusting the male cut, albeit less than than the last couple kitchens where I have had well out of square walls. If I went too far then I usually had a problem at the front of the joint, this method does not seem to work with...

Hi all, Using a new Unika worktop jig on my last couple of kitchens and noticed the same problem both times. Cut the female joint with a nice square end on the worktop and no problems. Offer in the male section of worktop, mark the cut from underneath as it needed to be a few degrees out of...

Oddly I think it's a designair, probably similar to the one crank mentioned, though I don't remember the model number (it's a customer supplied B & Q kitchen). I'll stretch it to around 700mm then? Shouldn't be a problem as they are mosiac tiles so pretty flexible on height in that respect.

Hi all, Fitting a kitchen for a customer and it's come (as per their spec) with an internal/filtered extract fan (no exterior venting) for above the electric hob. It's a stainless job with boxing to go above it but to say the diagram is poor is an understatement. :roll: From what I can...

Hi mate, they will sit on a large stone cill. Property has them on every window opening.

Got some hardwood windows to fix next week for the in laws (as per my other post) and wanted to treat them with something before they go in. They are unsure what treatment they are going to finish them with so I wanted to give them a good coat of something in case they dither for week or two...

Anyone got any idea what the normal size of double glazed units was back in 1986? Or were multiple sizes common back then? Thanks.

Cheers mate, I'll let you know how it goes....top advice. :D

Sounds ideal. I assume using the closers that you have would to have the windows made to more or less exact size of the opening, rather than a little wider....and then trying to get into the cavity a little and tight up the inside of the face brick/otside skin? Looks like the closers come flush...

Pinnacle, do you find the cavity closers ok for fixing into with biggish hardwood frames, looks like they would be ideal for UPVC? Or do you use a few straps as well? The two front frames are 1830mm high and 1220mm wide, toughened glass in the bottom and are 3" section (thick). Cheers again.

Cheers matey. :)

That's a good shout Pinnacle. :) Biggest issue with the polysulphide I found was getting a nice even bead on the brickwork/stone against the frame. Water with a bit of fairly liquid helped but still not brill. Think I'll try the quadrant if I can find some in Utile/Sapele. :D

Thanks fellas, like the idea of the timber wedges and then screw into it, that would allow me have the frames the same size as the opening instead of larger and trying to wriggle into the cavity. I will take a look at the insulated cavitity closers as well though, never used em before. :)...