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didn't see it but dot and dab is a big NO NO for tiling. The minimum british standard is 50% coverage for tiles and that is in a dry internal area. If it is a wet area then you have to have 100% coverage. Don't always believe what you see on the TV. P.

I think your problem is that you have used the wrong adhesive. You need to use a modified adhesive like a single part flexible. A standard adhesive will not bond to exsisting tiles. P.

Plaster needs 4 weeks to dry out before you tile on it. Also you need to get it skimmed because it's the skimming plaster that you need to tile to and not he bonding. Skimming plaster is a lot stronger than bonding. P.

how are the flags fixed and at what depth is the substrate underneath them. P.

You can use fast flex adhesive on the floor boards and a standard adhesive on the concrete. With fast flex you don't have to over lay with ply therefore keeping the floor level even . P.

BAL do one called APD you should be able to get it from any Topps Tile store. How thick are your tiles because the safe weight on plaster is 20kg per square metre, that's the equivalent to a 9 mm thickness tile. The safe weight onto plasterboard is 32kg per square metre or equivalent to 12mm...

it's better to grout first then silicone after, but you are both right you can do it the other way P.

yes you can i'd recommend using a tanking sysyem it's cheaper, but if you do use panels then i'd use something like aqua panel. P.

Hi i don't want to upset you but you can tile directly onto plasterboard so you didn't need to have it skimmed. Anyway ideally you would leave the plaster 4 weeks before you tile. You don't have to score the plaster just prime it first with an acylic based primer, then tile straight on...

The easiest and cheapest way is to use plasterboard. As it's a shower you will need to tank the plasterboard which is basically waterproofing it before you tile. All adhesives are water resistant as is the grout. You may have already found out by your plaster being wet or rotten.You don't need...

Hi Jenny there is no standard as to where a border should go. The only thing you need to is make sure that you have a full tile above and below the border tile and your cuts at the floor and ceiling.As for splash backs its a personal preference you can have as many or few tiles as...

there are tools out there. you can use tile nippers to cut the shape in the tile or a wet cutter.the tile nippers are the cheaper option to buy though

with wickes stuff they should come up quite easily. was it tile on wood ? to be honest no decent tiler would use any adhesive from DIY shops. i would recommend you go to your local tile shop and they will tell you what they recommend.you need a flexable adhesive because of movement in the...

what adhesive you used and how long they have been fixed ?

go to your local tile shop and ask for a rapid setting adhesive. this will set in 3 hours. as for the standard everything we do has a standard e.g. the british kite mark represents something has been approved by a govening body, to british standards, as for tiling we have the british standards...

try an acrylic based primer as pva is water based and any water gets onto it will seep through, but an acrylic based will not. i believe you can get a waterproof pva aswell.

what is room is above your ceiling ?

that is a big mistake on floors. you need to get 100% coverage with your adhesive. dot and dab is not acceptable in tiling especially on floors. the british standard for coverage of adhesive on walls in minimum 50% in dry internal areas, in wet areas it is 100% , and 100% on floors.

what type of tile are they, ceramic,quarry,porcelain ect. because the adhesive may be the wrong type for the tiles.

ceramic tiles are fired at 1100 degrees do you think that your stove will give out that much heat. tiles will not melt nor will a cement based adhesive