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Thanks all. Will test as suggested and post an update (probably tomorrow).

Yes, 18 Ohms. Tried volt stick at neutral and got an indication. Included a picture as well.

Will check the terminals again. Resistance was 18.

Voltage pen at the switch and thermostat and multi-meter for resistance at the switch and element/thermostat. We used to see a slight spark at the switch when it worked but now nothing.

We have an immersion heater that’s stopped working. I’ve reset the connections and element with a multi-meter and they all seem good. What else could it be? Is it possible it’s the switch? I assume if it were I wouldn’t get a volt reading (with a voltage pen) at the thermostat?

Sorry, to be clear - all I’m really trying to do is extend the flexi hose or the connection at the pipe end to make one fit the other more easily. I will send a pic later as that will help. That said, the elbow on its own looks like it would work just not sure why the additional adaptor is needed.

Ok, thanks - so, do I need both parts? I can see how the adaptor would allow me to fit the flexi hose but not how I would then connect to the pipe work. Is there another/easier option for extending the flexi hose or joint to allow a more comfortable fit? The elbow was just one option really.

Yes, I think that would probably work. I assume for the right side end I can take the screw on part off and attach the flexi hose? The left side end would attach to where the flexi hose is attached now. Is the fitting size correct for a standard flexi hose for household taps?

I have a flexible hose that is fitted under a sink that doesn't comfortably reach the brass fitting it connects to. Is there an elbow connector that I can fit to extend the current pipe/connector slightly to allow for a more comfortable connection? Obviously, I could get a longer flexible hose...

The first pics gate valve goes directly into (and is immediately before) the cylinder so I assumed that was the right one. Am I ok turning off any of these valves and testing the effect? Is there any potential to cause a problem by doing this? There are also a couple of lever type valves in the...

Hi, thanks - I assuming if I shut off the cold and drain the cold water then this would have the same effect i.e. no need to drain the hot water? Pics of gate valves - first one is the one I shut off. Second is on a pipe that runs to first but also splits off before that.

Ran for a few minutes and didn’t stop. If I run until the cylinder is empty then will that help or am I back to draining the system? Any other options?

If I turn off the gate vale on the pipe running directly into the bottom of hot water cylinder, should the hot water supply to the taps stop almost immediately? I've done this but the hot water still runs. I thought cutting off the cold water feed would stop hot water being pushed out of the top...

Testing in continuity mode I get a single beep for the 4 combinations tested when I think I should get 2 (one for live and one for neutral). I note my multi-meter only tests for resistance less than 100 ohms but I assume that’s not an issue. Can I assume there is a fault with the cable?

I have one clip attached to the live or neutral pin at the plug end and the other to one of the wires in the handle (going into the switch). With this I expect to get a low ohm reading on one wire at the switch end and OL when attaching clip to the other wire at switch end. The same when...

Our Sebo x4 has stopped working and now appears to have no power at all. I have started trying to diagnose the issue with a multi-meter and get the following results when testing the power cable from plug to switch (or prior to switch): 20 ohms (approx) for one connection. OL for all other...

Anyone have an idea how I open up a Quooker Fusion tap to see why the push and turn is no longer working? I found a video of someone replacing parts inside a standard Quooker tap but not one with the push & turn fitting.

So, simply push down with a flat head screwdriver on metal tab and pull side panel away from unit? No need to move/slide plastic block or anything like that?

Useful but doesn’t help with the immediate problem. The side panel is just clipped on but I can’t unclip from the front edge. Pic attached shows there is some plastic block that it clips to and I wonder whether this needs to be slid backwards or forwards or similar. Might just need more force...

Hi, I am trying to replace the hinge on a Siemens Integrated Dishwasher and I've got as far as needing to remove the side panels to get at the hinges. These look like they simply clip on and I have released them at the back of the machine. However, they don't seem to want to come off at the...