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Thanks. So something like the NYY-J cable from TLC seems like the stuff I need. Do I still need the 500mm of conduit between the buildings? Or can I go straight through, Double clip at each wall and create a nice drip loop? Thanks again

Hi guys I’m planning the electrics for my 4m x 3m workshop. I’m struggling with how to get legit power to it. I currently have an extension lead going from a socket in the garage, up over the back wall, down through the soffit and through the top of the workshop wall. Its time to do it properly...

Hi again. Cross battening is complete. About to start corner trims, then cladding. I've decided to go vertical. To me, it will look way better. Can anyone suggest a way of setting the T&G gap on this profile (see pic above)? At least one end of the boards will be pushed up against a trim piece...

Thanks guys. Here's the profile, pulled apart slightly for expansion. The t&g are slightly tapered, so pulling them apart as shown results in rather sloppy joint.

I've bought some T&G Shiplap cladding for my garden room. The intention was to mount it horizontaly but I think it would look way better vertical. Can anyone see any issues with that? I will counter batten to create an air gap, and I have installed a breathable membrane over the OSB sheathing...

Some great ideas there. As I have some time on my hands I ended up designing and 3D printing a tool to make the end of the round pipe into the perfect size square. Worked a treat

Thanks very much guys. I to cannot believe the part does't exist. I might 3D print one and see how long it lasts. Thanks again

Hi I'm trying to connect a 68mm round downpipe into a 65mm square downpipe branch. Can anyone suggest a way of achieving this? I bought a square to round adapter but the problem is, the adapter is meant to be used with the round end down. If I use it the other way it leaks like a sieve...

Ok so I decided to install osb panels prior to polistyrene insulation. Can anyone confirm if I need to install a vapour barrier before I put the ply floor down. Also do I need to add vents into the base so condensation can't build up. Any help appreciated Thanks

Hi all I'm just starting a diy garden room build and cannot find a definitive answer to this anywhere. The base will be made from treated 4x3 timber and will sit 2" off the ground on 9 concrete blocks. I believe the easiest way to insulate this would be to jam in some foil backed insulation...

So I assumed the two red wires exiting the filter/suppressor should be both live but this is not the case, one is neutral. I have tried bypassing it and the machine is still dead. Do I need a new control board?? Thanks

Hi guys I have a Siemens IQ500 which is completely dead and unresponsive. I have checked the fuse and power cord and I'm getting 240v at the machine end. With the cord now connected back to the suppressor, the output voltage at the 2 red wires is 240v and 0v. I'm guessing the suppressor is...

OK all sorted. He told me he needed to re-connect the thermostat wires that we had re-utilised for the 12v line, to keep boiler happy, and then bridge the live switching terminals at the thermostat. Stem you nailed it in your first post. Just means I need to buy a 12v power supply to chuck in...

OK now we have 12v at the heat link but 5v at the nest thermostat

I mean thats what we got. Not correct

thats correct yes

Electrician here now installing nest. We have no voltage at T1/T2 on Heat Link module any ideas? Urgent reply needed please.

Stem Thanks very much for that. The nest stat will replace the old room stat so I guess I can re-purpose the red and blue wires going to the old stat for the 12v nest stat supply. The other end will be connected to T1 T2 at the heat link module (12v). It that correct?

Yes that's the layout I currently have. I'm not sure how that correlates to the nest tho Thanks