T&G Shiplap Vertical

[billsy]

I've bought some T&G Shiplap cladding for my garden room. The intention was to mount it horizontaly but I think it would look way better vertical. Can anyone see any issues with that?

I will counter batten to create an air gap, and I have installed a breathable membrane over the OSB sheathing. I also understand I need a 1-2mm expansion gap between boards.

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

The timber cladding on your shed will rot first at the bottom.

If it is horizontal, that means one or two boards.

If it is vertical, it means every board, rotting up the end-grain.

Shiplap is shaped to throw off water, if laid horizontally.

 

[big-all]

if its "V" groove the water will be led onto the tounge and may be held by capillary action which in turn is smaller [5-7mm]
compared to cladding designed for horizontal mounting with a say 7-10mm tounge where the water that tracks under at the bottom just falls as there is no lip on top


"ignore my comments missread the post

 

[Notch7]

Yes it would work ok.

timber cladding fitted with a cavity behind has a much longer lifespan as the boards dry out quicker having air circulating behind.

shiplap is specifically profiled to shed rain when horizontal, so it's a potential compromise.

What you could do is when you cut the bottom board is to cut it at 45 degrees to form a drip. Sand the sharp point off, or cut with a 3mm flat, to ensure your surface coating sticks at the edge.

Pre coat the boards all over before fixing.

 

[billsy]

Thanks guys. Here's the profile, pulled apart slightly for expansion. The t&g are slightly tapered, so pulling them apart as shown results in rather sloppy joint.

 

[Notch7]

Oh of course I was forgetting the profile depth.

You can only cut a 45 dog beyond the shiplap scoop or it show.

You don't want to leave a square butt cut at the bottom, the water will run across it and drip off both front and back edges.

 

[billsy]

Hi again. Cross battening is complete. About to start corner trims, then cladding. I've decided to go vertical. To me, it will look way better.

Can anyone suggest a way of setting the T&G gap on this profile (see pic above)? At least one end of the boards will be pushed up against a trim piece, so no way to insert a match stick or similar. Also the boards aren't exactly straight so need to set the gap centrally on the board (not just at each end). I'm thinking just measure from the highest point of the scallop to the edge of the next board with a steel rule. There must be a better way tho?

Thanks guys