External cladding

29 Mar 2009
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United Kingdom
For my garden office walls I'm going to stand cladding off wpb with tile battens. Sensibly people suggest running the tile battens vertically and the cladding horizontally to enable water to drain however I want my cladding to run vertically to tie in with other elements in the garden. Is there a way round this?

Also planning on using t&g cladding but I hear it's not as weatherproof as ship lap... Saying that I'll have a vapour membrane and wpb so the cladding is more for aesthetics right so I should be ok using t&g?

Thanks for any guidance...
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things done for asthestic reasons are often a compromise
with txg shiplap no water is trapped in the joins so decay is minimized
you shouldnt have ply behind cladding as any moisture that gets through will be trapped between ply and cladding

you need cladding -airgap -breathable membrane- insulation and inner layer[like ply]
Sorry I should have said I will have ply, vapor barrier batton then cladding.

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Nothing wrong with ship lap and it looks really really good on your workshop but I was trying to tie it in with this:

However in an ideal world I would love this but not sure how it's achieved and how expensive it is...

If you're interested this is where i'm @ to date... Think it will bore most but might set-up a blog charting progress in case it helps someone else in the future...

There are absolutely no problems with having vertical timber cladding, you just have horizontal battens immediately behind fixed to vertical counter battens. Its a standard tried and trusted building method. Anyone who says otherwise is incorrect.

bolst3r you are correct with your construction you just need the extra vertical battens in there. So plasterboard, insulation, plywood, breathable membrane, vertical battens @ 600 centres, horizontal battens, vertical cladding.

Timber cladding should be considered as a basic aesthetic covering and should not be thought of as the waterproofing layer. The box inside should be weatherproof. Otherwise there would be no point fitting the membrane. Oh and buildings both commercial and domestic with build costs ranging from a few £hundred or £millions would fail.

Thanks for the reassurance, would I have to slope the horizontal batons so they don't hold water or is this overkill?

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