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I’ve been informed by the OH that the grout is not grey, but ‘Jasmine White’. So it’s a slightly muted white and not the white she wants.

we chose what we thought was a great greyish grout colour to go with our White Porcelanosa tiles and it looks..........awful. Missus is really peeved. The bathroom is fully tiled and to re-grout is a) a nightmare job full of risk of damage to tiles and b) getting a competent person to actually...

Thanks for the help guys. Sorry about the confusion on the wall. I remember seeing it as they were building it and I thought it was breeze block with metal studs i.e. an internal load bearing wall with metal studs and plasterboard (Apologies, but I don’t know much about building walls).

Hi, I'm looking at fitting some kitchen cupboards in my utility room, but need some advice on hanging them. The property is a new build with those metal batons instead of wooden and the cupboard is a boiler cupboard, but with shelves. To put it into context I already have a boiler cupboard...

@cwhayley, thanks for the tip. Speaking to the tiler who did the job tomorrow, so hopefully we can get a suitable solution. (Even if it means replacing the tiles).

Thanks foxhole, that’s what I’d thought.

Thanks for all the advice. The floor is stuck down. And I’ve got about 10-12mm gap under the door, so an underlay could go under. Any suggestions on a suitable make/model of underlay? Just a query. Do you think the tilers (I know it’s a tiling question!) should’ve tiled down to the bottom of...

Sorry, here’s some pics. Probably not as bad as 10mm, more like 5mm, but still looks untidy

so I’ve just moved into a new build and had some ‘unatural flooring’ http://www.unnaturalflooring.com/products-page/unnatural-flooring/oyster/ Fitted in our bathroom. The bathroom’s are fully tiled, but where the tiles meet the floor I’d estimate we’ve got up to 10mm jagged gap on a few of the...

Thanks for all your help guys. Finally tackled it today (wanted to wait until the other half was away for a few days in case it didn't go to plan). All done and dusted in less than an hour. Everything connected and working like a dream. Just wish I could've run a couple of wires from the Heat...

I'm assuming that's already in place at the wiring centre. As I'm connecting the HeatLink into the wiring at the programmer end, then it's not relevant. Whereas Stem's point about the 'HW Off' being connected to the 'Hot Water Satisfied' is valid.

Excellent, thanks Stem.

I'll double check tonight that it's got 4/5 wires coming from the valve into the wiring centre to confirm Y plan. I'm assuming that if it's Y plan I still set up as per my diagram and there won't be an extra wire for HW OFF going to my programmer. (If there is should I just connect to the L)

Many thanks Stem. That all makes sense now. I'll pick a suitable early morning once the house has warmed up with a tank of hot water. Have the camera on my phone ready, a heating engineer's phone number just in case, flick that circuit breaker off and make a start. This Friday's looking good...

Thanks for the advice. The thermostat 12v wires are an issue as the wiring centre is upstairs in the airing cupboard, the programmer is on a far wall in the kitchen and the thermostat is in the hallway. If I replace the programmer with the Heat Link I'm not going to be able to run wires to a...

This is what I'm thinking if I replace the Drayton LP722 programmer with the Nest Heat Link:

Do I need to wire the Heat Link directly into the wiring centre? Or can I replace the Drayton LP722 programmer with the Heat Link. I'm assuming I should be able to utilise the live, neutral, call for heat and call for HW. (With a daisy chained link on the Heat Link between the live, common Heat...

Thanks Pablo, I worked out that 6,7 & 9 go to the valve (diverter). 7 & 10 got to HW tank (assuming cylinder thermostat) 8 goes to the pump. I'm assuming the red live 12 is one wire from boiler and one wire to the programmer. The other wires go off either into the wall or through the floor...

Pics attached

I'm getting ready to fit a new 3rd generation Nest thermostat (and Heatlink). When I've looked at the wiring centre it doesn't look like any wiring diagram. There are no wires to positions 1,2,3,4 & 5. There are connections to positions 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10 with permanent lives on 11 & 12. The issue...