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I appreciate it's difficult yes. Since the 2 port valves will be controlled individually and in isolation by the relevant system then I don't see any concerns with opening up the other zones. Of course it's entirely possible I'm missing something but I wanted to grasp the whole high level...

Thanks guys, it's clearing up in my head slowly. So: - each UFH wiring centre (besides obviously connecting to the UFH zone thermostats) has to only connect to the boiler (either through the relevant 2 port valve or directly as Tony suggested) - hot water timer / programmer connects to the...

Thank you Dan for the response. So the timer only controls hot water so it only connects to the boiler and the cylinder 2 port valve, correct? And then yes you're right, all zones in both UFH systems have their own thermostats. Does this mean then that the wiring centre for each UFH connects...

Hi to all plumbers out there. Looking to confirm my understanding of my underfloor heating design as I'm getting conflicting info from my plumber, my electrician, and my underfloor heating tech support :( I have a system boiler with an unvented cylinder "behind" a 2 port valve, a 4 zone...

Perhaps I wasn't very clear. The wall that became internal after the extension, consists of brick-cavity-block. There is no reason to keep the cavity and inner block since this is now a totally internal wall, so I want to remove the blocks. The cavity however continues below current floor level...

Hi all, I was struggling to find an appropriate title for this post, so hopefully the description here will clarify: I've just built an single storey rear extension, which turned a 1 meter brick-cavity-block wall from external to internal as per the below diagram I want to keep that...

Just to close this one, here's what I did in the end: - bought an 12mm mag drill bit and a beer for my builder who kindly came over with his mag drill and we did 8 holes in the inner half of the bottom flange in 10 minutes for the M10 bolts - got some 109mm long techfast heavy duty self...

Based on engineer's instructions the holes have to be relatively precise, plus I don't own a nail gun, so, back to drilling, I'll use a drilling lubricant and the dewalt extreme hss drill bits and see how it goes...

Hi forumites, I need to attach a 70mm by 200mm 1 meter lengths of timber underneath a large 200mm by 200mm 5 meter steel i-beam in order to make up for the difference between the sliding door height and the structural opening height. My engineer suggested I can drill as many holes as I need...

I see. In my case the steel beam is very wide so can't go back to the inner wall leaf (if I understood you correctly). So it'll have to be the timber plate in which case I'll have to secure it properly to the steel beam.

There should already be a lintel above the window to support the top rows of bricks and/or potentially roof joists/trusses -posting a photo would help. The brickwork below the window can be removed as it's not structural; i.e. you can make a window taker by going downwards but not wider as...

Thank you John, helpful diagram. I'm indeed going for the VELFAC installation lugs but I'm a bit confused: are you saying the lugs were not installed in this packer timber plate?

:) I'm actually having VELFAC too, the biparting sliding doors. So John, I take you did use a timber under the steel -how did you attach it, i.e. what size bolts? Also, which insulation system did you go for?

These are triple glazed composite (aluminium outside / timber inside) sliding doors but not bifolds. My current thinking is attaching a 70mm timber plate to the underside of the steel beam and externally I'm going to insulate and render so it'll cover up the whole area and the timber won't be...

Hi all, The steel beam in my extension has been installed at a height of 2210mm but my sliding doors that are going in that opening require only a 2140 structural opening. What can I do to make up for the remaining 70mm? E.g. can I attach a timber plate under the steel beam and then install...

Hi tomfe, thanks for the response. I agree with the thickness statement you made, I'll probably go for thicker. About the airbricks, when you say "dig out your air vents" what do you mean? Leave openings in the EWI? Or "telescope" them above ground level? Also, where can I find approved...

Hi all, I currently have a brick - cavity - block external wall construction in the ground floor going up into a single block wall for the first floor. I intent to apply external wall insulation in both floors eventually to eliminate thermal bridges and improve overall performance. I have some...

Thanks for the response. It's already been doubled up with another joist, so ideally I'd avoid having to undo them. I'd like to understand what exactly it is before wasting another couple of hours :(

Hello forumites, I'm renovating my property currently and wanted to insulate what is going to be the media room floor and also bring it up to the same level as the rest of the house. This room used to be the garage, hence the floor height difference, and that's why the floor is sloping a bit as...

Hi all, Got my brand new kiln dried, regularised C24 2" × 7" joists today, and after putting one of them up I noticed the below on it: I doubt there is anything sinister going on there but thought to double check with the forum just in case. The length is around 15cm, and it's dry and hard...